Jōgasaki Coast Day Trip: Totoro's Secret Hiding Place

Part of the picturesque Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka, Jōgasaki Coast is the ideal escape. With its crystal-clear waters, weird and wonderful museums, and a wealth of cute cafés, the area offers more than enough for a memorable and refreshing day trip — or overnight getaway — from Tokyo. Here’s how to make the most of your visit — and where to find Totoro and his teddy-bear friends!

This itinerary is based on our experience visiting the Jōgasaki Coast in late September. Fortunately, we had a clear day, greatly enhancing the atmosphere and overall experience. We recommend aiming for similar conditions if possible. Jōgasaki is not great in the rain!

Note: Before we begin, it’s important to mention that everything in this area is quite far apart from each other, especially if you are relying on public transport. Therefore, try to prioritize only 3 or 4 activities at most, for your day out. You can reverse the order of our activities, starting at Izu-Kōgen Station, too.

Pro tip: Want to see Hakone Shrine, Mt. Ōmuro, and the Jōgasaki Coast all in one day? Then consider this easy bus tour from Tokyo.

7:30 a.m. — Start your journey to Jōgasaki Coast

Shinjuku Station to Jōgasaki-Kaigan Station
¥3,180 one way

There are a few ways to get to Jōgasaki from Tokyo. To save money, we recommend choosing the longer route and starting on the Odakyu Line from Shinjuku, then transferring at Odawara for the JR and Izu Kyūkō lines. In total, the journey costs ¥3,180 and takes just under 3 hours.

First, you’ll want to board the Romance Car at Shinjuku Station, and take it all the way to Odawara. To ride the Romance Car, you’ll need to pay ¥910 for the ticket and an extra ¥1,000 for a reserved seat (mandatory). You can buy the ticket beforehand at an Odakyu ticket machine, or through the Odakyu website.

Once you arrive at Odawara Station, take the JR Tōkaidō Line to Atami Station. After reaching Atami Station, transfer to the Line for Izukyu-Shimoda, then sit back and enjoy the ride to Jōgasaki-Kaigan Station (or Izu-Kōgen Station, which is one stop over). During this part of the journey, you can soak in the views of the sea and islands.

Taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo

A quicker but more expensive option is to take the Kodama Shinkansen straight from Tokyo Station to Atami Station and then jump on a local train. The Shinkansen ticket costs ¥4,270, but it will get you to Atami in 45 minutes. You will then need to take the Izu Kyūkō Line to Jōgasaki-Kaigan Station, another ¥920 and 43 minutes. Compared to using the Odakyu + JR/Izu Kyūkō Line route, this journey only takes 2 hours. 

Pro tip: If you have the JR Pass, you can use it for the Shinkansen to Atami.

The Saphir Odoriko

The ultra-fancy Saphir Odoriko is another option if you have money to burn. Running directly from Tokyo to Izu-Kōgen in just 2 hours and 20 minutes, it is a smooth and relaxing way to make the trip. However, the luxury train — which goes all the way down to Shimoda — costs over ¥7,000.

10:30 a.m. — Arrive at Jōgasaki-Kaigan Station

Despite Jōgasaki-Kaigan being smaller and quieter than Izu-Kōgen Station, it is actually the more accessible place to get off for the first stops — Kadowaki Lighthouse and the Suspension Bridge. From Jōgasaki-Kaigan, it is either a 25-minute bus ride or a 36-minute walk (pleasant in mild weather).

Before heading off, we recommend taking a look at the map outside the station, as it shows other routes you can take to various sightseeing spots along the coastline. 

We suggest walking, if possible, as it allows you to get a feel for the resort-like area and admire the grand houses and greenery along the way. The homes here have quite different architectural styles to what you’ll see in Tokyo, with some looking like they belong in Europe.

There are a few cute cafés along the route, including the popular Cafe Candy, which welcomes both human and canine visitors — though you’ll need a reservation.

11:30 a.m. — Go up Kadowaki Lighthouse

Futo
Free 

This is our first stop of the day (unless you’ve made a detour for coffee). Jōgasaki Coast and the broader Izu Peninsula are designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark and are part of Japan’s Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. This means they are recognized for their outstanding geological heritage and distinctive natural features.

As you walk down the path, you’ll spot a white lighthouse. Known as the Kadowaki Lighthouse, it is one of the most visited spots in Ito. Standing 24.9 meters tall, with an observation deck located 17 meters up, it offers the perfect vantage point to see the Jōgasaki Coast from above. 

Since entry is free, you can simply make your way up the spiral staircase to the observation deck. On a clear day, you can spot some of the Seven Islands of Izu and Mount Amagi in the distance. You can also gaze at the coastline and its rock formations.

Note that there is no elevator, so you’ll also need to walk back down the roughly 100 stairs.

Once you have descended, have a mooch around the small souvenir shop just in front of the lighthouse. There is also a snack vendor where you can get an ice cream if you are feeling peckish. 

11:40 a.m. — Cross the Kadowaki Suspension Bridge

Futo
Free 

Now it’s time to visit the most iconic and photographed location on Jōgasaki Coast: the Kadowaki Suspension Bridge. Hanging directly over the Jōgasaki Coast, this bridge is 48 meters long and 23 meters high. It connects two of the steepest cliffs in the area.

Not for the faint of heart, it offers views of the waves crashing against the rocks below. Although it can be a little intimidating, crossing the bridge is definitely worth it for the panoramic sight of Sagami Bay and beyond.

Hiking options

Jōgasaki Coast is a bit of a natural wonder. It was formed 4,000 years ago as a result of the volcanic Mount Ōmuro erupting. The coastal trail spans roughly 9 kilometers. Should you want to spend most of your day in this area, consider taking one (or more) of the walking trails.

The “Picnical Course” is a popular option, as it is a 3-km trail that follows the Jōgasaki coastline. More committed hikers may prefer the longer “Nature Study Trail”, an 8-km course that takes you past the Ōyodo and Koyodo tidal pools and to another suspension bridge, known as Hashidate.

However, if you want to prioritize other activities, simply visiting the lighthouse and one suspension bridge will give you a good feel for the coastline.

12:00 p.m. — Eat lunch at Boranaya

Futo
¥2,000 to ¥8,500

A reasonable, if hilly, 15-minute walk from Kadowaki Suspension Bridge, through the forest and then suburbs, is Boranaya. This 400-year-old former fisherman’s hut has been restored as a restaurant that serves fresh seafood, in an effort to preserve local fishing history. 

You’ll find plenty of options on the menu, including sea bream, and lobster tempura. The restaurant is most famous for its kinmedai (splendid alfonsino), a fish that comes straight from the Izu Coast. We opted for the ¥2,450 sashimi set, one of the most popular items. In addition to a good selection of sashimi, the set comes with a big bowl of rice, miso soup, and other sides.

Near the entrance of the restaurant, there’s a small public pool constructed from natural rocks and filled with seawater (in summer, anyway). The pool is open during July and August, with admission fees of ¥1,300 for adults and ¥700 for children. There are changerooms nearby.

12:45 p.m. — Take a small hike along the coast

It’s time for the next stop on this day-trip itinerary — the New York Lamp Museum & Flower Garden. From Boranaya, it is a 25-minute walk back across the suspension bridge, past the lighthouse, and through a different part of the forest. There are signs guiding you every step of the way, so don’t worry about getting lost — even though it might feel that way at times!

The walk does involve going up and down some narrow and uneven paths, so be prepared for that. Otherwise, it’s pretty straightforward and pleasant. It offers elevated views of the coast and, at one point, you go down toward the shoreline.

1:15 p.m. — Explore the New York Lamp Museum & Flower Garden

Izu Oceanic Park
¥1,500 for adults, ¥700 for elementary-school students and ¥400 for infants

The New York Lamp Museum & Flower Garden boasts Japan’s largest exhibition of Tiffany lamps, each inspired by the American art nouveau period. Meticulously handcrafted from cut pieces of colored glass, each lamp showcases its own unique motifs. The permanent exhibition also includes stained-glass windows, which are not commonly seen in Japanese architecture.

Along with the main exhibition space, this museum is known for its flower garden, which features seasonal blooms. The most popular time to visit is from May to June, when the Hydrangea Festival takes place in the dedicated Hydrangea Gardens. 

As you stroll around the gardens, you’ll notice several photo spots, some specifically designed for you and your dog to pose in front of.

Tiffany Museum Annex & Café

Whatever your feelings on fancy lamps, the Tiffany Museum Annex & Café makes for a great pitstop. You can sit indoors, surrounded by Tiffanys, or enjoy ocean views from the terrace. Here, you can indulge in light savory dishes or floral-themed desserts. 

We tried the chocolate cake, as well as the white-wine jelly — both beautifully presented and delicious. Desserts start at ¥900 on their own or ¥1,300 when paired with a drink, though it’s worth noting that the fruit jelly drink we tried was not included in the set menu. Also, when paired with a jelly dessert, it’s really rather a lot of jelly. Variety is recommended.

Before heading out, make sure to stop by the gift shop. With a diverse but small selection of Japanese- and Western-style ceramics and handicrafts, this is an excellent spot to find souvenirs, including your very own miniature lamp.

Getting to Izu Teddy Bear Museum from New York Lamp Museum & Flower Garden

To reach the last destination of the day, you’ll need to take the 170 or 133 bus from the front of the New York Lamp Museum & Flower Garden. The bus schedule is infrequent, with only two departures around this time in the afternoon — one at 2:09 p.m. and the other at 2:35 p.m. The next one isn’t until 4:15 p.m., which is too late, so be sure to hop on one of the first two to avoid getting stuck.

3 p.m. — Be enchanted by the Izu Teddy Bear Museum (and Totoro)

Yawatano 
¥1,500 for adults, ¥1,000 for junior-high students and ¥800 for elementary-school students 

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After visiting one museum, it’s time for another — one that both children and adults will love. Home to a charming collection of rare and vintage teddy bears from around the world, the Izu Teddy Bear Museum offers a one-of-a-kind experience. 

As you enter the grounds, you are greeted by multiple fluffy friends, including one that speaks and personally welcomes you. To enter the museum, there is an entrance fee of ¥1,500 for adults, ¥1,000 for junior and senior high school students, and ¥800 for children, but this is sometimes slightly less if you buy tickets online. Otherwise, you can enjoy the other facilities, such as the Teddy Bear- and Studio Ghibli-themed gift shop, tea room, and cookie shop, free of charge.

Inside the museum, you can see historic bears, as well as creative displays featuring dressed-up teddies. Be sure to stop by and appreciate the charming Teddy Bear Express, and the giant pink teddy-bear chair in the corner. 

Read about the Ghibli Museum in Tokyo.

Studio Ghibli exhibition

Fans of Studio Ghibli will be thrilled to know that the upstairs section of this museum is dedicated to My Neighbor Totoro. Since becoming a permanent fixture in 2018, the small exhibition gives you the chance to interact with plush replicas of characters and scenes from the film. Highlights include a snoring plush Totoro, and a life-sized Catbus — among other Ghibli delights.

The workshop

In addition to seeing a giant Totoro, you can also create your very own at the workshop. To participate, you will need to reserve a place prior to your visit via PassMarket. In the case that you are unable to grab a spot, sometimes there are last-minute cancellations on the day, so it’s worth speaking to one of the staff members to check.

The session costs ¥6,380 and lasts around 60 minutes. Even if you’re not the craftiest person, you’ll have a lot of fun making your own plushie. With three different Totoros to choose from and a variety of accessories, you can customize your plushie in any way you like. You can also opt to make a teddy instead of a Totoro.

The instructor will teach you how to stuff and sew your plushie. Once complete, you can take your new friend to a miniature beauty salon for a blow-dry, or an MRI scan to check their personality. There’s also a mini scale, a stadiometer, and even a shop where you can buy clothes for your new plushie.

4 p.m. — A quick snack at Kenny’s House Cafe

Next door to the Izu Teddy Bear Museum is Kenny’s House Café. Although you can find this chain in Tokyo, its birthplace is actually in Izu-Kōgen. In addition to having seating inside where you can enjoy light meals such as omurice and curry, takeout for smaller sweet treats is also available.

Takeout options include soft serves and agepan (deep-fried bread topped with sugar), each costing no more than ¥550. These make the perfect small treat to indulge in while walking back toward the station.

5 p.m. — Head back to Tokyo

 

From the Izu Teddy Bear Museum, it is an easy 12-minute walk to Izu-Kōgen Station. If you have time to spare, you could relax for a bit and use the ashiyu (foot bath) situated right outside the station.

Otherwise, jump on the next train back to Odawara and take the same route you did when coming. Don’t worry if you haven’t reserved a Romance Car ticket for the journey back from Odawara to Shinjuku. You can buy one at Odawara Station, at the ticket counter or ticket machine. 

Since the journey back to Tokyo takes just under 3 hours, we recommend getting the train from Izu-Kōgen around 5:30 p.m. — this means you will be back at Shinjuku Station just before 8:30 p.m.

Is a day trip to Jōgasaki worth it?

If you’re lucky enough to have a day filled with blue skies, the breathtaking coastline views alone make this trip worthwhile. However, the distance between places and the lack of public transport can make a day trip feel more rushed than relaxing at times. To get the most out of the area, we would encourage you to stay at least one night.

Regardless of whether you’re going for a day trip or an overnight stay, make sure to wear sensible shoes, as some paths near the coast can be quite rough and rocky. Unless you’re driving, you’ll likely be doing quite a bit of walking between each location. For those planning to drive, be sure to look up parking spots in advance.

That said, just like this itinerary shows, it is very much possible to make a Jōgasaki Coast day trip from Tokyo. To maximize your time, we would highly recommend aiming to get to the area between 10 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. at the latest. If you are willing to spend a bit more to get there earlier, then taking the Shinkansen straight to Atami is the best option. Regardless of how you get there, we would say budgeting 8 to 9 hours in the area is sufficient for a day trip.

Looking for more day trip inspiration? Check out our Top 26 Easy Day Trips From Tokyo.

Jōgasaki FAQs

What is the Izu Peninsula known for?

The Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka is best known for its beaches, ryokans, and mountain views. Some of the most popular places to visit on the peninsula include Ito, Atami, and Shimoda — to name a few.

Do you need a car in Izu?

If you want to explore more of the Izu Peninsula, we recommend renting a car. For this specific Jōgasaki Coast day trip, driving can also be beneficial since there’s a fair amount of distance between each location. However, you can manage with public transport and walking — just be sure to check the bus and train timetables beforehand. 

While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.