Tokyo’s JR Chūō Line, stretching westbound from the heart of the city, is a treasure trove of local drinking spots. From cozy izakaya to craft-beer bars, this bar-hopping guide will take you on a journey through some of the best watering holes along this iconic railway line. Grab your Suica card and take a tipsy trip from Nakano to Kichijoji and back.
Remember to drink responsibly and mind the last train times — or march on until the first train of the morning!
Best bars in Koenji
Koenji Station is filled with great drinking and eating haunts. The exteriors might not be fancy — but that’s not what you’re here for. | Photo by Jieun Choi
1. Gyoza-dokoro Tachibana (餃子処 たちばな)
Unlimited free gyoza with your drinks.
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If you thought eating out in Japan could be cheap, Gyoza-dokoro Tachibana is a place that takes the concept of “drinking snacks” to a whole new level. Order a drink, and it’ll come with a serving of piping hot gyoza — for 0 yen. And the deal is unlimited. For skeptics who think it’d be cheap quality gyoza, try it for yourself. They also have a second branch nearby (smoker friendly).
Lively izakaya specializing in pork skewers (yakiton).
The perfect spot for people watching. | Photo by Jieun Choi
If Tonkichi isn’t a quintessential Koenji spot, we don’t know what is. The sprawling outdoor space is usually packed with fashionable youngsters clinking beers over perfectly grilled pork skewers. Don’t miss their signature tan shio (salted pork tongue) — it pairs beautifully with an ice-cold beer or shochu.
Old-school dive bar with a rock-and-roll vibe, perfect for night owls.
Not for the faint of heart. | Photo by Jieun Choi
This dimly lit bar, adorned with rock memorabilia, is a favorite among local musicians and night owls. Unlimited hazelnuts to be cracked open are perfect for the fidgety and those looking for light bar snacks. The eclectic playlist and abundant infused drinks make Bar Tico the perfect spot to end your night. But if you still have energy …
Shinju by Jenny’s unassuming entrance. | Photo by Jieun Choi
1. Taiwan Xiaocai Stand “Shinju by Jenny” (台湾小菜スタンド《珍珠しんじゅbyジェニー》)
Vibrant Taiwanese street-food stand offering authentic flavors.
Shinju by Jenny brings a slice of Taiwanese night markets to this cozy Tokyo neighborhood. While not a traditional izakaya, the quaint spot is packed with aromatic spices and authentic flavors.
From lu rou fan (braised pork rice) to xiao long bao (soup dumplings), Taiwanese small bites will offer you a mini break on your Chūō line bar-hopping adventure. In a compact space with only about 10 counter seats, you’ll find yourself chatting with fellow diners (usually regulars) and the bar’s namesake, Jenny.
Popular yakitori spot known for its friendly, unpretentious vibe and delicious grilled chicken.
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Yakitori places are a dime a dozen, but for those looking for exceptional grilled chicken without fuss, Shinkei is the place to go.
The open grill gives you a view of the skilled chefs at work, grilling each skewer to perfection. Don’t miss their signature bell pepper wrapped in chicken — but watch out for the piping hot cheese oozing out after a bite!
Late nights at Yakitori Yoneda. | Photo by Jieun Choi
1. Yakitori Yoneda (焼とりよね田)
Small, smoky yakitori joint known for its expertly grilled skewers and intimate atmosphere.
Yoneda is a Nishi-Ogikubo staple, beloved by locals for its no-frills approach to food. A snug spot, seating only about 10 people, ensures an intimate experience. Watch as the owner-chef charcoal grills each skewer, resulting in perfectly smoky, juicy bites.
Unique spot specializing in top-notch lamb dishes from Hokkaido, providing a break from typical izakaya fare.
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Nothing goes with lamb like a cold highball. | Photo by Jieun Choi
This slightly grungy but welcoming spot specializes in lamb sent straight from Hokkaido. The Yottekeyo all-you-can-eat-and-drink course is a great deal, starting from ¥4,378. For 1.5 hours, you can chow down on an unlimited amount of high-quality lamb with a cold beer. True to the venue’s name, you might just find yourself happily stumbling your way home.
Intimate seafood-focused izakaya known for high-quality sashimi and grilled fish.
Don’t be fooled by the tiny door you have to bend over to enter. Nor by the huge demon-shaped lantern that invites you into the premises. Uohide is a seafood lover’s paradise.
This small but striking izakaya takes pride in serving the freshest fish available. Their sashimi platters are works of art, and the charcoal grilled fish of the day is always a good choice. Pick a glass for your sake and pair it with your meal for the ultimate Japanese dining experience.
Multifaceted venue offering a unique blend of café, bar, and cultural space with regular DJ events and a diverse menu.
Home Planet is a go-to in Kichijoji for wine, music, and tasty bites. | Photo by Jieun Choi
Step into Home Planet, and you’ll find yourself in a creative haven frequented by eclectic locals. With regular DJ events and live performances, each day may look different at Home Planet — but what stays consistent here is their great music, drinks (especially for natural wine lovers), and, above all, the welcoming atmosphere.
Labyrinthian world of food, drinks, and boozy conversation.
Harmonica Yokocho is a pocket of small eateries and drinking spots — ideal for those who like to hop from one place to another. A bit chaotic, but definitely worth the experience, the former post-war black market is now an inviting maze of bars and izakaya.
Do start during the day, when it’s already hard to tell the time despite being open-air. Wander through the narrow alleys, pop into tiny bars, and sample different drinks and snacks as you go.
Looking for just one more place to pop into? It’s time to head back to Nakano.
Daini Chikara Sakagura (第二力酒蔵)
Lively atmosphere, budget-friendly drinks, and hearty food — a perfect snapshot of after-work Tokyo life.
Step into Daini Chikara Sakagura, and you will feel the bustling energy of Tokyo’s salaryman culture. This local institution is always packed with office workers shedding the stress of the day.
The menu is a parade of Japanese comfort food — think crispy chicken karaage, sizzling yakitori, and steaming bowls of oden. This isn’t a place that caters to tourists; it’s a genuine slice of everyday Tokyo life. Don’t be surprised if you’re the only non-local there.
