Between Shinagawa and Jiyūgaoka lies a district that’s managed to dodge the tourist radar: Ōimachi. If you’ve been longing for retro vibes without the crowds, this might be your spot.
While the area around the station is seeing major redevelopment, venture a few steps and you’ll find yourself in a maze of smoky lanes. Ōimachi Yokocho, Azuma-Kōji and the surrounding streets are crammed with bars and restaurants that have been serving regulars for decades.
Trivia: Got a thing for trains? Among the tracks that crisscross the district are the huge rail yards where many of Tokyo’s commuter carriages sleep, giving the area its nickname, “tetsudō no machi” (railway town).
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Note: The spots recommended here aren’t tucked away in the aforementioned backstreets; they are nearby. But if you’re comfortable exploring, and even better, flexing your Japanese, it’s worth diving deeper into the alleys to discover your new favorite hole-in-the-wall joint.
Zeniba Seinikuten (2F)
Grill-it-yourself with flair 7 minutes on foot from Ōimachi Station (sister location in Shibuya)
Grill it yourself, or let the experts handle it. | Photo by Aarohi Narain
Zeniba serves up wallet-friendly yakiniku grilled on a slab of lava rock sourced from the Mount Fuji area.
Recommended dish
The mixed platter includes eight different cuts of beef and pork, including wagyu, and costs a little over ¥2,000 — a steal.
They make their ponzu sauce in-house, blending shīkuwāsā (Okinawan lime) and yuzu for a bright, tangy kick. And instead of garden-variety finely grated daikon radish, Zeniba uses oni oroshi or coarsely grated daikon, adding more texture and bite.
With large private booths as well as snug two-seaters, the venue is perfect for gatherings and date night alike.
Beefed-up noodles 7 minutes on foot from Ōimachi Station
The owner’s favorite is the tantanmen. | Photo by Jane Pipkin
There’s a lot of excellent ramen in Tokyo. But at Wagyu Ramen YOSHI, everything is made from top quality Japanese beef. That includes the broth, which boasts a rich gyūkotsu (beef bone) base. The shop proudly uses A5-grade Kuroge wagyu across dishes like roast beef, gyoza, and ramen.
Recommended dish
Try the Akabeko Ramen made with Fukushima wagyu for a subtle spice, or the tantanmen, the owner’s personal favorite. The wagyu gyoza are especially popular.
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Wine and pudding is the way to go here. | Photo by Aarohi Narain
stand LOTI is a no-fuss standing bar that takes wine seriously. Their specialty is Georgian wine, particularly Mukado Wine by Lado Uzunashvili, which offers wines aged in traditional Georgian clay jars, paired with small plates.
Recommended dish
Don’t miss their retro purin or pudding, only available in limited quantities each evening, for a perfectly jiggly finish to the night.
Note: The communal setup encourages mingling, though rumor has it there’s a quieter third floor for those who’d prefer to sit.
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Neighborhood comfort food 6 minutes on foot from Ōimachi Station, along Suzuran-dōri.
Rolled omelette, fried chicken, marinated tuna, edamame and shishamo at Isohei. | Photo by Aarohi Narain
Although it’s only been open for around a decade, this izakaya feels like it’s been here forever — in a good way. Locals drop in for draft beer and a bowl of motsu nikomi, a rich, dark stew loaded with meat, tofu, and daikon, and stay longer than planned.
Recommended dish
The food is straightforward and well-executed: shishamo (fried Japanese smelt you can eat whole), lollipop-style karaage, and a rotating menu of seasonal specials including maguro zuke (marinated tuna). We recommend it all, honestly. Drinks are classic, from frosty Hoppy-and-shōchū combos to sake and highballs.
Drop by earlier in the evening and it’s mellow enough to chat under the glow of lanterns, before the regulars roll in. Note that Isohei permits indoor smoking.
Take a stroll and discover the neighborhood. | Photo by Aarohi Narain
Try ordering a round of Hoppy, a beer-flavored mixer that’s usually paired with shōchū.
Brush up on a few Japanese phrases: “Konnichiwa” (Hello) and “Osusume wa?” (What do you recommend?) go a long way.
Expect a small otoshi or table charge of around ¥300 to ¥500. You’ll get a small appetizer for it.
Indoor smoking is allowed at some venues. So, plan accordingly.
Be mindful of space; these shops rely on quick turnover, so once you’re done eating or drinking, make room for the next round of customers.
How to get there
Ōimachi is about 15 minutes by train from Shibuya. There are multiple routes of access — here are two.
From Shibuya Station, take the Saikyō Line headed for Shin-Kiba with throughservice to the Rinkai Line. Otherwise, change at Ōsaki Station to the Rinkai Line. Get off at Ōimachi Station.
Alternatively, take the Yamanote Line to Shinagawa Station, then switch to the Keihin-Tōhoku Line and get off at Ōimachi Station.
Written by Aarohi Narain
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