Written by Aviraj Gokool
Between Shinjuku and Kichijōji, laughter and the sound of glasses clinking can be heard from a tucked-away alley in Nishi-Ogikubo, called Yanagi Kōji (Willow Alley).
As an alternative to Shinjuku’s Omoide Yokochō (Piss Alley), as well as the famous Golden Gai, locals and expats head to Willow Alley to explore its small shops and bars, and connect with its niche communities.
We’ve been blessed to spend countless nights in “Nishiogi” bar hopping, meeting the locals, and hearing their histories. Here are some of our favorite places to visit in and around Willow Alley.
Explore Willow Alley’s bars and restaurants
There are over 50 shops in Willow Alley — here’s a taste of some of the places to eat and drink.
Homemade Korean food at Toyaji
3 Chome-11-5 Nishiogiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0053
Relish the taste of authentic homemade Korean food at Toyaji, a Korean bar and restaurant run by a mother-and-daughter duo. Originally frequenting Korean restaurants in Shin Ōkubo, owner Nanami Yoshida had always dreamed of opening her own establishment, but it was hard for her to pursue her aspirations, balancing an office job and raising a family. When the office work took a toll on her health, however, she decided to quit and take over the space that was to become Toyaji.
From solo eaters to big groups, people have rushed to Toyaji’s doorstep for about 17 years, establishing itself as one of Nishiogi’s prime drinking and eating spots. Patrons savor menu items like the hearty sundubu-jjigae and pajeon packed with scallions and kimchi in the winter, or beer and a beautiful platter of bossam and saucy bulgogi in the summer.
No matter the season, regulars come craving Toyaji’s umami-filled samgyeopsal over a sizzling hot stone. With each item ranging from ¥500 to ¥1,500, it’s an affordable way to fill up on both food and drinks. Gathered around homemade meals, the customers and staff will make you feel like part of the family with their hospitality and wonderful company.
Snack Bar Beni’s “power spot”
3 Chome-11-9 Nishiogiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0053
Embrace one of Japan’s best-loved nightlife cultures at the longest-running “snack bar” in Willow Alley. Featured several times on NHK, Snack Beni has operated for about 45 years, making it one of the alley’s oldest businesses. Kumiko-san, the current “mama” of the bar, and her mother migrated from Aizu and were immediately attracted to Nishiogi’s charm. The two believed the area to be a “power spot” after a meteorite landed in the vicinity a few million years ago. They were drawn to this spiritual energy.
Kumiko has expanded the small snack bar into three different establishments. Customers can enjoy the laidback vibe of Bar Akai, get energetic and do karaoke with strangers at Pub Kurenai, or sing and chat with Mama Kumiko at Snack Beni.
In traditional snack-bar fashion, Beni’s drinks are paired with light snacks like chocolate, rice crackers, cheese, and seasonal items like sweet potato. Be careful of racking up a bill, though; the seating charge and drinks each cost ¥1,000, and each song is ¥200. Regardless of which one you choose, the energy and friendly ambiance of each of Kumiko’s bars are sure to keep you coming back.
Thai cuisine at Handsome Shokudō
3 Chome-11-5 Nishiogiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0053
Keisuke Mishina established Handsome Shokudō in 2001 and largely shaped Willow Alley’s current atmosphere. At the time, the narrow lane was filled only with watering holes and aging snack bars. Families and residents avoided the former blue-line district as it was stigmatized. But with aromatics calling from Handsome’s rustic doors, a younger crowd hungry for finer cuisine emerged.
More than alcohol, Handsome Shokudō offers savory meals like refreshing spring rolls, pad thai, and the popular charcoal-grilled chicken, gai yang, glazed with a sweet and spicy green onion sauce. Serving such delectables shifted the closed-off drinking culture to a more open and free vibe that’s easier for younger crowds and solo parties to enter.
With the owner and staff taking frequent trips to Thailand, Handsome’s chefs have been experimenting with fusions and izakaya-style dishes like potato salad with a coconut milk base. Expect a perfect blend of creative menu items and nostalgic drinking-space vibes.
Generational Taiwanese food at Chinmitei
3 Chome-11-6 Nishiogiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0053
Though quaint and hard to spot, Chinmitei is standing strong after three generations. Run by a father-and-son duo, Nobusuke and Kenji Hayashi, the shop’s roots stem from Shinjuku’s gritty Omoide Yokochō. Kenji’s grandfather migrated from Taiwan before WWII and opened a restaurant there in 1955. But after being swindled, he found a similar alleyway in Nishiogi and opened the family shop in 1963.
With just 10 seats inside and makeshift beer-crate tables at the storefront, Chinmitei excels in efficiency and taste. Within a few minutes of your order, a heaping plate of Taiwanese fare is presented before you. Crunchy on the outside and soft, tender, and juicy on the inside, the zhu jiao (pork trotter) pairs excellently with the glistening stir-fried mifen (glass noodles) topped with chopped garlic cloves. It’s no wonder these are the two most popular menu items.
Of course, it’s only right to wash the food down with a glass of Shaoxing rice wine straight from China. What’s best is that each item is under ¥1,000, making it a great-value meal made with three generations of know-how. A must-stop for travelers seeking a Showa-era atmosphere and authentic taste.
Seasonal fashion at Auckland Jeans Shop
3 Chome-10-10 Nishiogiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0053
First opened by Hiroaki Tada’s father in 1951, Auckland Jeans Shop became an instant hit during the postwar period. Initially, Auckland Jeans was a second-hand store, buying old clothes from Americans, refurbishing, and washing the garments before selling them on. The family worked closely with Tsunemi, the company that created Edwin. Auckland Jeans soon gained traction and, at one point, expanded to locations in Ōkubo and Ōtsuka.
Now facing a long row of chain stores, Auckland Jeans is one of the few remaining locally owned stores in the shopping street. With rising rent prices and commercial stores seeking a stronger presence in Nishiogi, many of the older shops are long gone. However, Tada offers a wide collection of Western-style casual and professional seasonal clothing, keeping the store a gem amongst locals and travelers alike.
From Japanese denim to sleek button-up shirts and chic dresses, it’s tempting to go on a shopping spree. Tada also offers excellent customer service, making recommendations that cater to each customer (he helped me choose the perfect fall attire).
Japanese knick-knacks along Nishiogi Antique Street
Street starts from 4-Chome-4-2 Nishiogi-kita, Suginami, Tokyo
Bargain-hunters flock to the myriad shops lining Nishiogi’s Antique Street, only a 5-minute walk from Nishi-Ogikubo Station. With the sheer amount of stores, it’s easy to spend the whole day digging through treasures, so here are some noteworthy shops to check out when you’re visiting the area.
If you’re a ceramic and porcelain enthusiast, then Senyudo is the perfect store to browse. These practical art pieces originate from Japan, China, South-east Asia, and the UK, and some of these relics date back as far as 2000 years. Alongside the famed blue and white Japanese imari porcelain wares, the store also carries unique folk masks.
Tori Tori specializes in novel and vintage Japanese dolls and retro toys, making it a must-visit for collectors hunting for uncommon post-war goods. Alongside the wooden and porcelain dolls dressed in various fabrics, Tori Tori also offers traditional textiles, furniture, lacquerware, and tableware.
Antiques Jikoh is one of Nishiogi’s oldest and largest antique stores. They have an array of items like vintage art, sake cups, kimono, traditional ornaments, and more. Jikoh also supplies cute kokeshi dolls, making it a one-stop, must-stop shop in the antique district.
Pay respects at Fushimi Inari Shrine
3 Chome-2-10 Nishiogikita, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0042
Just a couple minutes from the north exit of the station is Nishiogi’s Fushimi Inari Shrine. It’s situated in a snug, unassuming alley with the entrance marked by a bright red torii gate. Local businesses in the shopping district established the shrine in the early Showa era, praying for prosperity.
Though petite, the shrine has watched over the immediate area and businesses for almost a century, making it the guardian deity of Nishiogi’s shopping district. As a sign of gratitude to both the city and local stores, residents and travelers offer up their favorite snacks like choco pies and chocolates.
Don’t hesitate to toss a 5-yen coin, a symbol of destiny and chance, into the donation box to increase your chances of a fateful encounter in Nishiogi.
Stroll through Zenpukuji Park
3 Chome-9-10 Zenpukuji, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0041
Located in a quiet residential area, Zenpukuji Park is about a 20-minute walk from Nishi-Ogikubo Station or a short bus ride from the north side of the station. Divided between an upper and lower pond, this large park provides stretches of grass perfect for a daytime picnic or afternoon nap.
At the Upper Pond, rowboats and pedal boats are available to rent, while both sections of the park are equipped with several small playgrounds. The park also features a small Benzaiten shrine where parkgoers can worship the god of wealth, water, music, and eloquence.
Additionally, the community holds an annual event called Trolls in the Park, where Zenpukuji turns into a public art gallery, and families can enjoy live music and shows.
Laced with cherry blossoms in spring and red, autumnal leaves in the fall, Zenpukuji Park makes for a relaxing city escape no matter when you visit.
While we do our best to make sure it’s correct, information is subject to change.
