daruma Archives | Tokyo Cheapo

The largest city in Gunma Prefecture, Takasaki is renowned as the birthplace of daruma dolls -- and offers a taste of Japan's traditional countryside. Just under an hour from Tokyo on the Shinkansen, Takasaki makes for a relatively affordable and rewarding day trip. Here's how to make the most of it. Before we jump into our itinerary -- note that you can easily adjust the order of activities and e.g. head to Byakue Dai-Kannon from Takasaki Station instead. However, keep in mind that buses can be infrequent. Be sure to check transport schedules to avoid getting stuck! Pro tip: For more day-trip ideas, check out the Top 26 Easy Day Trips From Tokyo. 7:30 a.m. -- Start your journey from Tokyo to Takasaki There are a few different ways to get from Tokyo to Takasaki. Shinkansen to Takasaki If you are coming from the east side of Tokyo, like Ueno, taking the Joetsu Shinkansen or Hokuriku Shinkansen is the quickest way to get to Takasaki. It takes about 50 minutes and costs around one way. For those with a JR Pass or Tokyo Wide Pass, you can take the Shinkansen for free. Regular train to Takasaki To save money, consider taking the Takasaki Line, which connects to the Shonan Shinjuku Line at JR Shinjuku Station. Although it takes nearly 2 hours, it only costs one way. That's what we did. If you're feeling luxurious, you can always upgrade to the Green Car for around (that's not what we did). Driving to Takasaki It’s also easy to drive to Takasaki, taking about an hour and a half via the Kanetsu Expressway. However, the cost of renting a car, along with tolls, adds up. That said, having a car offers greater freedom, and the opportunity to see more of Takasaki. 9:30 a.m. -- Arrive at Gumma-Yawata Station Although Takasaki Station is the main hub, you'll need to head to the smaller Gumma-Yawata Station. To get there, transfer at Takasaki Station to the Shin-Etsu Line towards Yokokawa. It is a few stops, and takes just under 10 minutes. Once you arrive at Gumma-Yawata Station, take a moment to snap a photo with the daruma statues outside. From there, it's an 11-minute walk to Daimonya, the first stop of our itinerary. Pro tip: Although there is a bus that takes 10 minutes and costs , we recommend walking instead, if possible, as the buses run infrequently. 10 a.m. -- Paint your own daruma at Daimonya The first stop of the day is Daimonya, a warehouse and workshop space dedicated to the creation of daruma. Boasting the largest daruma production in Japan, creating 70,000 pieces per year, there’s no better place to learn about the history of the red round doll. What is a daruma, exactly? Before we get into the details, some of you might be wondering: what is a daruma doll? A daruma is a traditional Japanese doll made from papier-mâché, representing the Buddhist monk Bodhidharma. Known for its distinctive round shape and facial features, the daruma symbolizes good luck and perseverance. Typically, a daruma doll comes with only one eye. The tradition is that the owner fills in one eye when setting a goal or making a wish. Once this has been achieved or fulfilled, the other eye has to be filled in. Shortly after the new year begins, these dolls are burned at festivals as a way of expressing gratitude for the fortune received. The workshop You can choose between two workshops: a painting session or a handprinting experience. We opted for the painting experience. Reservations must be made online in advance, and the price ranges from to , depending on which daruma you want to paint. You can choose from a variety of daruma dolls, ranging from simple designs to more intricate ones. Once you have chosen yours, you'll learn about the history and discover what makes Takasaki daruma special. You'll also have the chance to practice painting the face. Fascinatingly, the daruma’s thick black eyebrows are shaped like a crane, and its mustache resembles a tortoise. First, you will sketch these shapes on paper, but once you're feeling brave, you can paint directly onto your daruma. You can also write your own kanji or ask one of the staff to do it for you. There is an option to personalize the back of your daruma with your name, too. After all of that, your daruma will be taken to a sacred, private area for its finishing touches. Once your daruma is finalized, you can take a photo of it and bring it home to make your wish. Note: The daruma painting workshop happens twice a day, at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. As mentioned, you can always adjust this itinerary and attend the workshop in the afternoon. The shop After making your own doll, you can purchase even more at the shop. Daimonya stocks unique dolls, including owl daruma and exclusive seasonal designs. Be sure to check out the impressive display of red daruma, and try to spot the mini daruma scattered throughout the warehouse. 11:30 a.m. -- Grab an early lunch at Yawata-an After an insightful workshop, it's time to grab an early lunch. There are a few local udon and yakitori spots within walking distance, with our choice being Yawata-an. This casual and cozy restaurant offers a variety of hot and cold soba and udon dishes, as well as teishoku-style meals. Takasaki is famous for udon, and with Gunma known for its wheat production, it feels right to try some on a day trip. Even though the photos on the menu (which is entirely in Japanese) make the portions look small, they are actually quite large. This is reflected in the price, with some dishes costing . On our visit, we opted for the tempura udon and tempura-don set, both of which were delicious. Each comes with a generous helping of tempura, leaving you feeling full and satisfied. Important: If you decide to pop by, make sure to have cash on you -- you can't pay by card! Getting from Yawata-an to Shorinzan Daruma-ji Temple It is a relatively straightforward 17-minute walk to the next stop - Shorinzan Daruma-ji Temple. Along the way, make sure to look out for daruma -- there are some on the road, and they also appear as you head towards the temple. 12:30 p.m. -- Explore Shorinzan Daruma-ji Temple This small temple, built in 1697, is dedicated to Japan's lucky dolls. It is believed that daruma originated here. At the main temple, you can see stacks of colorful daruma of all shapes and sizes, with a large red daruma sitting in the center. On January 15 each year, the temple holds a festival where they burn the daruma on a bonfire as a thank-you for good fortune. In addition to the collection of daruma dolls, the temple features beautiful gardens to stroll through, a pond filled with koi, and several other buildings. You can even get a goshuin (shrine stamp). However, you will need to be practice patience and write a verse of the sutra to receive one. Pro tip: You won't be surprised to know that you can buy a variety of daruma at this shrine. If you’re visiting in January, be sure to check out the bustling Takasaki Daruma Market, which takes place near Takasaki Station. Painting more daruma On the grounds of the temple, there is another daruma painting experience. In comparison to Daimonya, it is slightly cheaper -- costing for a small doll and for a big one. However, there are less intricate designs to choose from, with only block colors available. The great thing about this workshop, though, is that you still get an insight into the history of daruma and how to paint its face -- but more freedom on how to customize it. Apparently, many visitors paint popular characters or original patterns. Getting from Shorinzan Daruma-ji Temple to Byakue Dai-Kannon Getting to Byakue Dai-Kannon from Shorinzan Daruma-ji Temple isn't the most convenient. Although Google Maps suggests taking the bus from the temple to the Notsuke bus stop and then walking for about 20 minutes, we highly recommend not doing this. The walk is entirely uphill, and the roads aren't designed with pedestrians in mind. Despite it taking nearly a hour instead of 30 minutes, we would suggest taking the bus from the Shorinzan Iriguchi bus stop to Takasaki Station. This journey alone takes about 30 minutes and costs . Then from the station, take the 13 or 14 Kannon-yama Line to Byakue Kannon mae for . The bus schedules can be a bit awkward, especially in the afternoon, so this part of the itinerary requires careful planning. We recommend checking the times before your trip to ensure they align. If the timings don't work for you, it might be better to visit Byakue Dai-Kannon in the morning and skip the Daimonya workshop. 3 p.m. -- Have a sweet treat at Kannon-chaya Shop Once you arrive at Byakue Kannon Mae, you can either start exploring the area around Byakue Dai-Kannon, or make a quick pit stop. On the way to the statue, you'll find a charming tea and souvenir shop called Kannon-chaya. This shop has been featured on Japanese TV several times, and is run by a lovely middle-aged lady. If you're looking for recommendations on what to see, she's a great person to ask. In addition to selling sweets shaped like Byakue Dai-Kannon, the café/shop offers traditional desserts, ice cream, and parfaits. We tried the Uji Matcha Parfait for , which includes red bean paste, cream, and cornflakes. The shop owner recommends adding a pinch of special Himalayan pink salt to enhance the flavor -- and so do we. 3:30 p.m. -- Admire the Takasaki Byakue Dai-Kannon Upon leaving the café, be sure to admire the grand Takasaki Byakue Dai-Kannon from a distance. As you begin walking to the top of Mount Kannonyama, where the statue sits, you'll notice large footprints on the ground guiding your way. Soon, you'll reach the grounds of Jigenin Temple and the famous Byakue Dai-Kannon. Byakue Dai-Kannon is a statue of the Goddess of Mercy. Weighing nearly 6,000 tons and standing 41.8 meters tall, this statue towers over Takasaki -- a real sight to behold. It was built by Takasaki businessman Yasusaburo Inoue in 1936, in an effort to bring peace and protection. It serves as a guardian deity of the local area, with many people coming to pray for safety and security. If you’re feeling up to it, you can walk up the 146 steps inside the statue to enjoy unparalleled views of Takasaki and beyond. Admission is for adults and for children. Pro tip: The best time to visit is during cherry blossom season, when the hills below are covered in pink. Jigen-in Temple Next to the statue is Jigen-in Temple, a place that has historically been prosperous for scholars. There are a few other points of interest and "power spots" to see, including the hexagonal Light Hall behind Byakue Dai-Kannon, which is said to be especially good for those who want to pray for success in love. You could definitely spend a few hours walking around the different trails, seeing different smaller temples, the cave of Kannon and the Takasaki City Dye Plant Botanical Garden. For those interested in doing this, we would suggest skipping 1-2 of the other activities on the itinerary. Taking the bus back to Takasaki Station There are two different buses that go back to Takasaki Station. These are the Kannon-yama Line 13 and 14. Both cost and have infrequent schedules, with just one bus per hour. Since one bus stop is on the main road, we recommend taking the 4:30 p.m. bus in autumn and winter to avoid waiting in the dark. The journey is roughly 30 minutes, dropping you off outside the west exit of Takasaki Station. 5 p.m. -- Head back to Tokyo To avoid getting back to Tokyo too late, it's best to aim to leave Takasaki around 5 p.m. That said, if you'd like to grab dinner near Takasaki Station and browse the surrounding shops, you can take your time and leave later. Regardless of when you leave, after a long day of exploring, the local train ride can feel tedious. We highly recommend spending a little extra for a more comfortable journey back in the Green Car. Is a day trip to Takasaki worth it? If you want a relaxing, slow-paced day with lots of culture, Takasaki is an excellent option. It goes without saying that Takasaki is also the day-trip destination if you appreciate daruma. They are dotted around everywhere -- in shop windows, outside the stations, and even near bridges. You may wish to spend time searching for hidden daruma scattered throughout the area! Takasaki has much more to offer, too, including the famous Haruna Shrine and Mount Haruna, which are best accessed by car. In Gunma itself, there’s even more to discover, such as the renowned hot-spring towns of Kusatsu Onsen, Ikaho Onsen, and Shima Onsen. You can also visit UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Tomioka Silk Mill. However, these attractions are not always easy to reach, so an overnight trip is needed. Takasaki FAQs What is Takasaki known for? Takasaki is most famous for its daruma -- and also classic locomotives. Just outside the city, you’ll find an array of well-known hot-spring resorts and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Note: These places are easier to access if you have a car; visiting them as part of a day trip is quite difficult. Is Takasaki part of Tokyo? Despite being relatively close to Tokyo, Takasaki is actually the largest city in Gunma Prefecture. As outlined in this itinerary, it offers an easy day trip for those interested in nature, traditional culture, and, of course, daruma dolls. While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.

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