Written by Aarohi Narain
Kusatsu Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous hot-spring towns. Thanks to a direct highway bus from Tokyo, reaching this mountain retreat in Gunma Prefecture is effortless: no tricky transfers, just a smooth ride straight to healing waters.
At the heart of the town, Yubatake bubbles away, its mineral-rich springs flowing through wooden channels. Wander the winding paths of Ura-Kusatsu, witness the centuries-old yumomi water-stirring tradition, and soak in an open-air bath surrounded by abundant greenery.
Kusatsu might be well known as a winter getaway, but this overnight escape can be enjoyed in any season. Tokyo summers are blisteringly hot, but the high elevation of Kusatsu creates a cool and relaxing retreat. And it’s within easy reach.
Highway bus from Shibuya Mark City to Kusatsu Onsen
The most straightforward and affordable way to get from Tokyo to Kusatsu Onsen is by direct highway bus. Departing from Shibuya Mark City twice a day, this route takes approximately 4-5 hours, making a couple of stops along the way. You can book for either 8:20 a.m. or 9:20 a.m. — we recommend an earlier departure if possible, for maximum relaxation in the hot springs.
Buying bus tickets for Shibuya to Kusatsu Onsen
Book tickets onlineWe recommend purchasing tickets online. It’s easy to modify or even cancel your booking if plans change (cancellation costs just ¥100). It’s also possible to buy tickets in person at the counter in the bus terminal.
How to buy bus tickets for Shibuya to Kusatsu Onsen
The online portal for buying tickets is easy to use. Here are the steps:
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- 1. Enter travel dates, departure point and destination, and passenger information.
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- 2. Check the schedule information.
- 3. Select your desired seat type. Choose one-way or round-trip.
- 4. Confirm that both the outbound and return bus information is correct.
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- 5. Pay and you’re all done!
Booking confirmation will be emailed to you.
What to expect on the bus
If the thought of riding a bus for hours up winding mountain roads makes you queasy, you’re not alone. However, the highway bus to Kusatsu is more comfortable than you’d expect. The seats are well-cushioned, there’s a toilet onboard, and you have access to charging outlets in addition to free Wi-Fi. Large windows offer views of dramatic scenery straight out of a traditional landscape painting, with dense green foliage in summer and stunning gold and copper tones in autumn.
Day 1 of your trip to Kusatsu Onsen
8:20 a.m. — Start your journey to Kusatsu Onsen
Shibuya Station to Kusatsu Onsen Bus Terminal¥4,000 one way (adult fare, highway bus)
Make your way to Shibuya Station. Then, head to the Highway Bus Terminal located within the West Mall, Shibuya Mark City. Directions differ based on which train line you’re taking, but all of the information has been helpfully summarized here.
The bus terminal has toilets, a waiting room, coin lockers, vending machines, and an information counter (open from 10 a.m.). Like in an airport, there are monitors showing upcoming departures and arrivals. Find the bus stop marked 91, where buses to Kusatsu Onsen set off from. Simply show your web ticket, stow away larger items, and hop onboard.
Around 10:30 a.m. — Stretch your legs at Kamisato Service Area
Shibuya Mark City to Kamisato Service AreaKamisato Service Area is outfitted with bathrooms, a nursing room, an ATM that accepts overseas cards (Mizuho Bank), free water and tea dispensers, and a handful of restaurants to fuel up for the rest of the journey. Add to that a souvenir shopping area stocked with local goods, and it’s easy to while away the time here.
After about a 20-minute break at Kamisato, you’ll hop back on the bus for the next leg. Make sure you get to the bus before the stated time. They will do a headcount before setting off.
From here on out, the scenery slowly changes from concrete suburbia to natural vistas replete with craggy mountains and old-growth trees — a whisper of what’s to come.
12:05 p.m. Arrive at Kusatsu Onsen Bus Terminal
Kusatsu Onsen Bus Terminal to your hotelKusatsu Onsen Bus Terminal spans three floors: it has bathrooms, an info desk, lockers, and a souvenir shop on the first; buses on the second; and an onsen-focused library on the third. Just outside, a small foot bath (ashiyu) awaits.
When your bus pulls in, grab your bags, head down the slope, and follow the crowds. The first thing you’ll see — and smell — is the Yubatake, Kusatsu’s steaming, sulphuric heart. All roads lead to the Yubatake, so instead of dwelling here right now, save it for later.
Drop your bags at your hotel
At traditional Japanese-style inns, check-in typically begins no earlier than 2 p.m. But it’s usually possible to drop off your bags at the reception so that you can go exploring hands-free. It’s a good idea to deploy a smaller, waterproof bag with some basic toiletries and a towel to make it easier to bathe whenever the urge strikes.
We stayed at the lovely Kirishimaya Ryokan, a Kusatsu Onsen institution with a variety of hot springs.
“We are one of the few tattoo-friendly ryokan in Kusatsu,” Shuji Nakazawa, proprietor of Kirishimaya Ryokan, told us. “Guests with tattoos are welcome to enjoy our hot springs. If anyone feels concerned about being seen by others, they are also welcome to use our private bathroom, which is a comfortable size for one to two adults.”
12:45 p.m. — Eat lunch at Restaurant Matsumoto
Your hotel to Restaurant Matsumoto (~10 minutes)From ¥1,000
From your hotel, amble over to Restaurant Matsumoto. This popular restaurant is a temple to himokawa udon — impossibly wide, silken ribbons made from locally milled flour. If you’re a fan of Sichuan’s biang biang or prefer the way pappardelle cradles sauce over the slender bite of linguine, this is the noodle for you.
Our pick: the himokawa udon in a rich, warming pork broth (¥1,200), or, for a vegetarian option, the maitake tempura (¥1,300), its frilled edges fried to golden crispness. The restaurant also sells take-home himokawa (one pack has two portions) for ¥800.
1:30 p.m. — Stroll over to Sainokawara Park
Restaurant Matsumoto to Sainokawara Park (~3 minutes)From ¥800
Take a post-prandial walk, and snap up an onsen-steamed egg for ¥200 (located in front of the glasss gallery) along the way to Sainokawara Park.
Sainokawara Park is home to dozens of bubbling hot-spring pools that flow restlessly in all four seasons. This is a wonderful park for lingering, dotted with statues and informative plaques, so take your time and explore every hidden nook.
Follow the main path to the entrance of the open-air bath, or rotenburo, with an entry fee of ¥800 per person. Towels are available for purchase starting at ¥380.
Inside, you’ll find cubbies and coin lockers for your belongings. While there are no showers or additional amenities, they’re unnecessary here. Disrobe completely, store your items securely, and step out to acclimate by pouring hot water over your feet before gradually immersing yourself in the onsen. The expansive rotenburo is one of Japan’s largest outdoor baths, spanning approximately 500 square meters, and offers areas of varying temperatures. Bonus: it’s tattoo-friendly. If you only soak once in Kusatsu, make it Sainokawara.
2:45 p.m. — Marvel at the Yubatake
Sainokawara Park to Yubatake (~10 minutes)
At the center of Kusatsu, the Yubatake — or “hot-water field” — steams and hisses. The town’s lifeblood, this cascade of scalding onsen water flows over wooden chutes, cooling just enough before it’s siphoned off to the many inns and bathhouses of Kusatsu Onsen. You’ll see plenty of photos of it, but the actual sight of the Yubatake inspires awe.
3:30 p.m. — Watch yumomi, Kusatsu’s signature water-stirring music and dance show
Yubatake to Netsu-no-Yu (~2 minutes)¥700
In Kusatsu, the natural hot-spring water is too hot for even the bravest bather. Rather than diluting it, locals have long practiced “yumomi”, a technique where wooden paddles stir and aerate the water, gradually bringing it to a tolerable temperature. The tradition is now performed as a choreographed show, complete with rhythmic folk chants. On weekends and public holidays, you can also try it yourself.
Tickets sell out fast and there are no advance reservations, so line up as quickly as you can at Netsu-no-Yu’s ticket counter (¥700). But don’t worry if you miss this one — performances take place every day at 9:30 a.m., 10 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 3:30 p.m., 4 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.
4 p.m. — Wander around Ura-Kusatsu
Netsu-no-Yu to Ura-Kusatsu (~5 minutes)Ura-Kusatsu is the town’s quirky B-side: a quieter, deliberately crafted offshoot with a fresh, contemporary feel. Developed in 2021, this pocket extends out from Jizonoyu, one of the town’s three free public baths open to visitors.
Here, you’ll find woodsy-chic cafe Tsuki no Kao, known for their specialty drinks and scones (from ¥650). Another calm spot is Mangado, a laid-back manga shop and cafe. If you’re not keen on a full-body soak in the milky waters of Jizonoyu, try the face-steaming window or kao yu, where you can let volcanic steam billow over your skin for a mini facial.
5:30 p.m. — Go hot-spring hopping
Ura-Kusatsu to Otaki-no-Yu¥1,100
Keep your towel handy — there’s more bathing to do. Otaki-no-Yu is a refined bathhouse known for its signature awase yu: a multi-step process where you move through pools of gradually increasing temperature, allowing your body to acclimate to the heat while absorbing the goodness of the mineral-rich water. There are four pools, and we personally found that the first two pools were quite hot enough, even as avid hot-spring enthusiasts.
Otaki-no-Yu also has an outdoor bath and reservable private baths, in addition to dining and rest spaces.
7 p.m. — Sit down to a yakiniku dinner
Otakinoyu to Shitatsuzumi or Barikiya (~15 minutes)From ¥2,500 per person (without alcohol)
Many onsen ryokan in Kusatsu offer kaiseki, a traditional multi-course meal highlighting seasonal ingredients. However, if you’re eating out, yakiniku or Japanese-style barbecue is the best way to sample local meat, namely Joshu beef and pork.
At a yakiniku restaurant, diners grill thinly sliced meat at their table, searing each piece to their preferred doneness before dipping it in a variety of sauces. Joshu beef, a finely marbled wagyu, melts in the mouth, while Joshu pork, often from Mochibuta or Kurobuta breeds, has a mild sweetness and a juicy bite. Raised in Gunma’s cool climate, both meats offer a clean, refined umami that won’t leave you feeling overly full.
Choose between the Kusatsu Onsen yakiniku restaurants Shitatsuzumi and Barikiya. Shitatsuzumi is tied to a butcher, and the restaurant focuses on showcasing the meat’s natural umami with minimal seasoning. Meanwhile, Barikiya is a well-regarded local chain. You can access the menu in multiple languages at both restaurants, but beware that it’s machine translation, so some things may sound off. Pair with some local sake — just ask for a recommendation if you’re not sure — to round out your meal.
8:30 p.m. — Revisit Yubatake for the nighttime light-up, and retire to your hotel for the night
At night, Yubatake glows, steam curling into the quiet. With the crowds slightly thinned out, it’s just the rush of hot-spring water and the misty glow of the town. Take it in, then head back to your hotel for the night.
Day 2 of your trip to Kusatsu Onsen
8 a.m. — Eat breakfast and prepare for checkout
Start your morning with a bath and breakfast at your ryokan, usually a spread involving miso soup, rice, pickles and more.
9:30 a.m. — Hop on the free shuttle bus to Kusatsu Onsen Ski Resort
Kusatsu Bus Terminal to Kusatsu Onsen Ski Resort (~10 minutes)Catch the free shuttle to Kusatsu Onsen Ski Resort, which winds through forests before dropping you at the base of the mountain.
The most thrilling way to take it all in? The SkySwing. Suspended high above the slopes, this towering swing launches you into the air, your stomach dropping before the view pulls you back in.
If you prefer speed over freefall, BanZip TENGU lets you race downhill on a 500-meter zipline, skimming over tree canopies at up to 70 km/h.
For a slower way to soak in the landscape, take a ride on the Pulse Gondola Tengu, floating quietly over the hills.
11:45 a.m. — Head back to Kusatsu Onsen
Kusatsu Onsen Ski Resort to Kusatsu Bus Terminal (~10 minutes)Hop back on the shuttle and return to central Kusatsu — it’s lunchtime.
12 p.m. — Lunch at Iiyama Tei or Yasuragitei
Kusatsu Bus Terminal to restaurant (~10 minutes)From ¥1,400
For lunch, stop by Iiyama Tei, a local favorite specializing in kamameshi, a traditional Japanese rice dish cooked in an iron pot with seasonal ingredients. Popular options include the mushroom kamameshi (¥1,400) and the chicken and burdock root kamameshi (¥1,500), both served with miso soup and pickles. Expect to queue for a while and keep in mind that the restaurant will close for the day once they sell out. For reference, on a day following a public holiday, the restaurant opened at 11 a.m. and was no longer seating guests by 1 p.m.
For a lighter option, Yasuragitei specializes in kyuwari inaka soba, handmade noodles made with 90% buckwheat flour, giving them a deep, nutty flavor. Pair with the signature maitake tempura, featuring wild mushrooms foraged from Kusatsu’s surrounding mountains. Maitake thrives in the region’s naturally acidic soil, one of the few ingredients that can withstand Kusatsu’s mineral-rich environment, so it’s no surprise you’ll find it on menus all over town.
1 p.m. — Pick up souvenirs and snacks for the bus
Restaurant to Yubatake (~3 minutes)
On the first floor of Kusatsu Onsen Hotel Ichii, right by the Yubatake, is the town’s largest gallery of omiyage or souvenirs. Pick up snacks ranging from Gunma-exclusive potato-and-rice chips speckled with Joshu beef powder to yumomi stirrer-shaped coffee biscuits, or bathing-related items like bath salts, face masks, and handwoven towels.
If you’re looking for local tipples, Anzai Shouten is an excellent liquor store that goes back over a century. The store carries a wide range of sake, spirits, and craft liqueurs. One standout is the GI Tone-Numata sake, a Geographical Indication (GI)-certified brew (similar to how Scotch whisky must be distilled in Scotland or how Cognac can only come from its namesake region in France). Made with local water, locally grown rice (Yukihotaka, Gohyakumangoku, Koshihikari), and unique yeast strains, it reflects the terroir of the region.
You can sample various sake here for free. When we visited, they were also pouring a creamy yoghurt liqueur.
2 p.m. — Take the bus to Snow Monkey Park, or head back to Tokyo
Kusatsu Bus Terminal to Jigokudani Monkey Park (~2 hours), or Tokyo (~4 hours)From ¥2,800
Take the bus to Jigokudani Monkey Park, home to Japan’s famous snow monkeys, who while away the days soaking in natural hot springs (not jealous at all). The 2-hour ride drops you near the trailhead, followed by a 30-minute walk through a forest to the monkey bath. You can visit in all seasons, even summer. Note, however, that you cannot take the bus there in winter.
For a close encounter with snow monkeys, Korakukan Ryokan offers an outdoor hot-spring shared with them. Prefer a primate-free soak? Stay at Yudanaka Yasuragi in Yudanaka, a budget-friendly inn with private baths and public onsen.
Children: ¥400
If you’re heading straight back to Tokyo, skip the snow monkeys and board the highway bus from Kusatsu to Shibuya, which departs at 2:45 p.m.
Staying on: Day 3 of your trip to Kusatsu Onsen
Staying an extra night in Kusatsu Onsen means you can slow the pace, soak more, and explore beyond the main sights. With extra time, you can wander deeper into Ura-Kusatsu, discovering more of its hidden corners, or head back to Kusatsu Onsen Ski Resort. But if you’re here for the hot springs, this is your chance to experience more of Kusatsu’s legendary baths.
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- Goza-no-Yu (paid, ¥800): A beautifully restored bathhouse with elegant wooden interiors, offering two different mineral baths to compare. They also provide yukata rentals, so you can dress up and take photos around town in classic attire.
- Shirahata-no-Yu (free): A traditional public bath near Yubatake, known for its simple, no-frills indoor pools where you can soak alongside locals.
- Chiyo-no-Yu (free): Another historic, free public bath, slightly smaller but just as atmospheric, offering a classic Kusatsu experience.
Is Kusatsu Onsen worth it?
Absolutely. Kusatsu Onsen is one of Japan’s premier hot-spring destinations, with some of the country’s highest-quality onsen water. A direct highway bus from Shibuya Mark City takes you straight to the heart of Kusatsu in just 4-5 hours, with comfortable seating, Wi-Fi, and a scenic ride through the mountains.
Visiting Kusatsu is enjoyable in all seasons. If you want to cool off in the summer and enjoy a nice nature retreat without any hassle, this weekend escape could be perfect for you. If you have more time, consider extending your stay and using Kusatsu as a stopover before visiting the snow monkeys in Yudanaka. Access to the monkeys is limited in winter, so it’s a great time to visit.
Kusatsu Onsen FAQs
What is Kusatsu Onsen famous for?
Kusatsu is one of Japan’s most celebrated hot-spring towns, known for its high-acid, mineral-rich onsen water believed to have healing properties.
How long should I stay in Kusatsu?
With an overnight stay, you get to experience Kusatsu at its best: bathing at your own pace, enjoying local food, and soaking in the town’s atmosphere. If you stay two nights, you’ll have time for activities like hiking, ziplining, or even a visit to the Snow Monkey Park in Yudanaka, Nagano during the green season.
Can I go to Kusatsu Onsen with tattoos?
Yes! Kusatsu has several tattoo-friendly options, including Sainokawara Rotenburo, a large open-air bath in Sainokawara Park, and smaller, free public baths like Shirahata-no-Yu and Chiyo-no-Yu. Some ryokan also offer private baths, making it easy for visitors with tattoos to enjoy the hot springs.
Also read: Kusatsu Onsen — Weekend Escape for 100 USD
While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.
