You’ll be seeing red at the Jindaiji Temple Yakuyoke Ganzan Jie Daishi Festival. This popular spring event in Tokyo started in the Edo period in memory of Ganzan Daishi. One of Japan’s three biggest daruma doll markets, there are around 300 street stalls selling these traditional dolls.
When you’ve picked yours out, you have them write your wish on the back of the daruma. You then take it to a special stall, where a monk will fill in the left eye with a character indicating you’ve made a wish. One year later, you come and return the old one. If your wish came true, they mark the right eye with another character representing its fulfillment.
There is also prayer every hour and cedar-stick burning. At 2 pm, a ritual called Hyakumi Kuyo takes place, including a procession and an offering of tea and sweets for Ganzan Daishi.