natuRe tokyo — Sustainable French-Style Dining

Nestled in Toritsu Meiji Park in Shinjuku, the contemporary restaurant natuRe tokyo specializes in French cuisine, with a focus on sustainability. It is the loving creation of the acclaimed Chef Nae Ogawa, and serves as the sister establishment to natuRe waikiki in Hawaii.

Ogawa has a star-studded career: she cut her teeth in the two-star Michelin restaurant Narisawa (Tokyo), as well as Bouley (New York), and La Bourse et La Vie (Paris). In 2017, she moved to Honolulu in the role of opening sous chef at Paris. Hawaii.

After losing her job during COVID, Ogawa took the opportunity to reevaluate what she wanted to do, and decided to combine her passion for sustainability with her love of cooking in a new endeavor. Perhaps serendipitously, the company behind Paris.Hawai’i gave her the opportunity to spearhead a new project in the same space, this time as executive chef. This led to the opening of natuRe waikiki in 2021, followed shortly by natuRe tokyo.

“I’ve always had a keen interest in outdoor activities like hiking, as well as conservation efforts such as beach clean-ups,” Ogawa tells us. “I have a deep appreciation for Hawaii and its beautiful environment, and I want to help preserve and showcase it.” That same focus on sustainability translates to Tokyo, too.

Price range

The full dinner course, priced at ¥8,800, features nine different dishes primarily composed of meat, fish, and vegetables. Alternatively, you can opt for a shorter course at ¥5,800, which includes five dishes from the full course. Whichever option you choose, you’ll get to savor carefully curated plates, all inspired by Ogawa’s passion for sustainability.

Unlike at the flagship natuRe waikiki, in Tokyo you have the option to order individual dishes from the lunch and à la carte menus, too. Some of the top picks include the Harvest Salad and Wood-Fired Hamburger Steak with Hatcho Miso Demi-Glace. Prices range from ¥2,500 to ¥4,500.

How to make a reservation for natuRe tokyo

Reservations can be made easily online or by phone. If you want to book in English, reserving online is the best option.

Note that you are unable to book a specific seat, and that the outside patio cannot be reserved. If you want to reserve a private room or are a party of more than 11 people, it’s best to call ahead.

Food

The menu embraces the farm-to-table concept, and features organic produce from — among other areas — Kumamoto and Kanazawa. Chef Ogawa highlights the importance of using the whole ingredient, even if it is imperfect. This is one reason why all of her dishes incorporate a variety of ingredients and flavours.

The Full Course

On our visit, we tried the “Full Course”, which featured some autumn-inspired dishes prepared by Chef Ogawa. It included the following:

• Ezo Venison Tartare Tart
• Grilled Marinated Swordfish with Persimmon
• Chicken Liver Mousse Guava Eclair
• Wood-grilled Seaweed Vinaigrette Citrus Condiment
• Awaji Island Onion Mousse & Jus
• Smoked Abalone & Turnip
• Sweet Sea Bream Grilled, 2 Types of Soup Stock, Finger Lime
• Wood-grilled Kumamoto Beef Fillet Hawaiian Fresh Pepper & Kiawe Smoked Salt
• Salted Koji Gelato

Despite not being listed on the menu, homemade bread with sake-lees-infused butter is also served. The full-course menu presents a delightful array of flavors, ranging from zesty citrus notes to rich, smoky undertones. It is definitely well suited to those who like fish, as half the dishes incorporate it.

What is apparent throughout is the thought that has gone into each dish. For example, the black pepper on the beef fillet incorporates Hawaiian wood, reflecting Chef Ogawa’s deep appreciation for the Hawaiian environment. Additionally, the leaves of the turnip on the Smoked Abalone showcase her commitment to upcycling produce.

The menu is full of innovative dishes, such as the Chicken Liver Mousse Guava Eclair that combines sweet and savory flavors. While all the dishes were memorable, the standout for us was the Awaji Island Onion Mousse & Jus. No dish encompasses the concept better than this one. The whole onion is used, and hidden inside is gnocchi. Surprisingly, no butter or cream is used to create the creamy dish; only ricotta cheese. The simplicity of enjoying the whole onion is what defines the dining experience.

Vegetarian options

Notably, the full course can be alternated to accomodate vegetarians. We recommend contacting the restaurant in advance about this. There are also a few vegetarian options on the lunch menu, including Wood-grilled Mushroom and Bamboo Charcoal Fritters with Lotus Root and Shishito Peppers.

Drinks

The drinks menu is minimal but intentional. The offerings have a fruity theme, including the Tangerine Mimosa and the Discovery Bay cocktail, which features gin, passion fruit, honey, and hibiscus tea. You can also sip on some natural wine, and savor a selection of domestic and international craft beers. Drinks start from around ¥950.

During our visit, we sampled a glass of Champagne Roger Barnier Brut Millésime Cuvée Blanch, as well as a non-alcoholic sparkling white tea, L’Artisan Du Thé White Tea Sparkling Silver Needle. Both beautifully complemented the food.

Ambience

natuRe tokyo exudes an elegant yet earthy atmosphere, striking a balance between luxury and casual comfort. It warmly invites everyone to savor sustainably sourced dishes.

The wood burner serves not only as a vital cooking element, but also as the focal point of the interior. The dim lighting further highlights the burner, symbolizing its role as the heart and hearth of the venue.

natuRe tokyo feels slightly secluded from the other cafés and shops in the area, embodying the essence of nature by being within Meiji Park itself. It offers a superb setting for both special occasions and casual catch-ups with friends.

Our review of natuRe tokyo

When speaking with Chef Ogawa, her motivation and vision for natuRe shine through. The restaurant feels like a personal passion project that invites guests to experience food in a new way, encouraging us to reconsider how we use and consume it.

The full course offers excellent value for money, not just because of the variety of dishes, but also due to their uniqueness and freshness. Each meal is distinct and delicious, with highlights like the Smoked Abalone & Turnip, which is beautifully presented — served with a lid that, when lifted, releases a cloud of smoke.

natuRe tokyo is perfect for those seeking a high-quality French dining experience that is down-to-earth and uniquely executed.

natuRe tokyo is good for

The restaurant blends casual and upscale dining. Lunchtime has a great menu in a calm setting, thanks to the surrounding greenery of the park. For a more luxurious experience, try dinner in the evening when the dim lighting adds a layer of sophistication. It is perfect for those who appreciate an intimate dining atmosphere, and have a keen interest in both sustainability and culinary innovation.

Sources:

• Honolulu Magazine
• Violet Luxury Redefined

by Jane Pipkin