Andrew Bibee

Deep in the heart of Saitama lies one of Kanto’s best-kept secrets -- Nagatoro. It’s long been a popular vacation spot for in-the-know Tokyoites, around 90 minutes from Ikebukuro or Ueno. Nestled between Mt. Hodo and the Arakawa River, it is the perfect place for hikers, river-boat thrillseekers, and foodies curious to try something new. Here’s how to get to Nagatoro -- and some ideas for what to do there. While we tried out this Nagatoro day-trip itinerary in July, it can be used all year round. Just remember to check the weather before you go, as some activities, such as the Nagatoro Rhine Cruise, may be canceled on rainy days. Pro tip: We recommend going on a weekday, if possible, to avoid the crowds (it's not a total secret, after all). Also, wear sensible shoes and clothing that you don’t mind getting wet or dirty for the duration of the trip -- you’ll be having lots of fun outdoors. Departing Tokyo for Nagatoro Ikebukuro Station to Nagatoro Station; Ueno Station to Nagatoro Station – one way; cheaper with the Seibu Pass 100 minutes – 2 hours This one-day itinerary covers all the major sightseeing spots and activities in Nagatoro, so it is best to set off early in the morning. The overall journey could take up to 2 hours, as the local train lines from transfer points Ohanabatake or Kumagaya run, on average, two to three trains every hour. From Ikebukuro For those near Ikebukuro, we recommend the 7:30 a.m. Seibu Line express rapid transit “Laview”, which departs from Ikebukuro Station and takes you directly to Seibu-Chichibu Station, in approximately 80 minutes. Once you reach Seibu-Chichibu Station, follow the signs to Ohanabatake Station and hop on the Chichibu Rail Line local towards Kumagaya or Hanyū for 20 minutes and then get off at Nagatoro Station; the overall cost should be about . From Ueno If you are closer to the Ueno Station area, take the hour-long JR Line rapid from Ueno Station to Kumagaya Station. You will have more options, such as the Takasaki Line, Ueno-Tokyo Line, or Shōnan-Shinjuku Line, but we recommend taking the Ueno-Tokyo Line from 7:49 a.m. on weekdays and 7:33 a.m. on weekends. Once you arrive at Kumagaya Station, transfer to the Chichibu Rail Line local towards Kagemori or Mitsumineguchi, and ride for 50 minutes to Nagatoro Station. The overall cost should be about . Note: Both methods should reach Nagatoro Station by 10 a.m., giving you ample time to stretch, use the restroom, and stop by the visitor center before the 10:30 a.m. shuttle takes you to your first stop. Morning: Mount Hodo Free shuttle bus from Nagatoro Station to Hodosan Ropeway Station Free for the shuttle bus, for the ropeway round trip 5 – 10 minutes Our first stop is one of the main sightseeing spots in Nagatoro, the Hodosan Ropeway. You can take a free shuttle bus from 10:30 a.m. in front of the visitor center. The buses will first take you to the trick art museum, but we recommend you stay on for the Hodosan Ropeway Station. Hodosan Ropeway is known for its nifty little cable cars and picturesque views of Mt. Hodo. Once atop, take in the sight of the Saitama mountain ranges as you hike around. Hodosan also has a dedicated mountaintop zoo where you can pet deer and monkeys, but we recommend the 5-minute hike to the Okumiya, a shrine dedicated to a local legend. Okumiya Free A hike up the stairs reveals a white torii gate shrouded by trees. Once past it, you will find yourself in front of the Okumiya (rear shrine), which commemorates the 1900-year-old legend of Prince Takeru-no-Mikoto surviving a mountain fire with the aid of the mountain spirit and dog deities. Because of this, the shrine is flanked by dog deity statues rather than the usual lions. After seeing the shrine, be sure to visit the souvenir shop and rest area in front of the Okumiya and say hi to the energetic 90-something-year-old gift-shop owner there. Take in one last view of the shrine and the mountains as you head back down the ropeway. Hodosan Shrine Down the ropeway and a 5-minute downward hike Free Once at the bottom of the Hodosan Ropeway Station, turn left towards the restroom area and follow the signs down to the main Hodosan Shrine. You will be met with another large white torii gate, and a set of stairs leading up to the shrine. The shrine commemorates the aforementioned legend, and you’ll see plenty of people coming to receive protection against theft, fires, and difficulties in life. Walk around the shrine to take in its repainted beauty, and visit the shop to purchase a commemorative charm with a carp and a dragon on it. The design alludes to a specific carving and water motif of the shrine, and tells the story of a carp that transformed into a dragon after swimming up a waterfall. Midday: Lunch at Umedaya or Tan Ichi From Hodosan Shrine 10-minute walk Umedaya Pro tip: This is a vegan option After having fun in the mountains, it’s time for lunch. If you are in the mood for something artisanal and vegan-friendly, we recommend taking the 10-minute walk down from the shrine to visit Umedaya Tofu Shop. Situated in a refurbished 100-year-old home with comfortable tatami mats, Umedaya’s signature meal is a singular seasonal tofu lunch set that comes with silken oboro tofu, rice, miso soup, and other tofu-based salads and side dishes. The lunch set is , and for – more, you can have your pick of drinks or desserts. All menu items are vegan friendly, and the tofu is made daily, in house. Lunch is served until 2 p.m. The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays. Pro tip: We recommend stopping by the shop next door afterward for souvenirs, tofu donuts, and soy-based drinks on the go. Tan Ichi From Hodosan Shrine 5-minute shuttle bus towards Nagatoro Station, and a 5-minute walk to Tan Ichi If you prefer trying a regional dish, we recommend Tan Ichi, which serves regional ayu sweetfish cuisine near the Iwadatami rock formations, at the far end of the shopping district. The most notable dish on the menu is the 200 ayu meshi set. It comes with grilled ayu, which is then steamed with rice and dashi in an iron pot. The grilled and salted ayu, as well as ayu steamed in sake, are delectable as well. If fish isn’t for you, they also prepare a range of soba, as well as shaved-ice desserts. Prices range from to . Tan Ichi is also the perfect spot for dinner, but be sure to reserve in advance. To get there, take the free shuttle bus back to Nagatoro Station from the stop in front of the trick art museum (downhill from the shrine). From there, it will be a short 5-minute walk past the train tracks to Tan Ichi. Afternoon: Nagatoro Rhine Cruise and Iwadatami One of the main reasons people visit Nagatoro is the river cruise -- where you can ride traditional wooden boats steered by expert boatmen down the Arakawa River. The section of the Arakawa River passing through Nagatoro is renowned for its landscape, surrounded by the Iwadatami rock formations. Nagatoro Rhine Cruise Per course: on regular days, on peak days 20 minutes per course Note: The cruise does not operate on days with heavy rain and poor weather. Be sure to check the website/X account before you go. While there are a few boating companies in Nagatoro, we recommend the Nagatoro Rhine Cruise, the largest in the area. The Nagatoro Rhine Cruise is separated into two 20-minute courses, which the boatsman will guide you to. “A” course begins with a short shuttle ride to the starting position upstream and ends at Iwadatami; “B” course begins at Iwadatami and ends downriver, where a shuttle will be provided to return you to the Nagatoro Rhine Cruise ticket shop. You don’t need to prepare anything special, but wear clothing that you don’t mind getting wet; a life vest and a tarp will be provided for safety and to keep you dry, but you are still zooming through rapids, after all. Iwadatami Once off the boats, you are free to explore Iwadatami. The name translates to "rock tatami" due to its resemblance to sheets of tatami mats. Iwadatami is a sight to behold in all seasons, with lush green trees matching the emerald river during summer, and red leaves falling into the water during autumn. Be sure to watch your step, as the Iwadatami has no artificial barriers and has a lot of crevices! Early evening: Shopping for souvenirs and heading back to Tokyo After a long day of hiking and boating, it’s time to do some last-minute souvenir shopping. Returning to Nagatoro Station, you will pass through a shopping district that sells souvenirs and Chichibu-themed snacks. Nearly all the shops will close by 5 p.m., which is also the perfect time to start heading to the station. There are a limited number of trains heading towards Tokyo, and the journey back will take about 2 hours plus wait time; you should be able to return to Tokyo by 8 p.m. Pro tip: For those heading back to Tokyo via the Seibu-Ikebukuro Line -- if you have spare time, we recommend relaxing in the hot spring within Seibu-Chichibu Station, and visiting their food court for dinner options. Nagatoro FAQs Is a day trip to Nagatoro worth it? 100% yes. Nagatoro has everything set up perfectly for a day trip, thanks to the close proximity of the mountain and riverbank. Multiple shuttle services are provided free for almost any activity you decide to do -- it’s a rare spot where you don’t need your own car at all. Despite this, prepare to walk and climb a lot for this trip -- every shrine, temple, and rock formation is on an incline, and we can attest that our legs and knees were sore at the end of the day! Should I stay overnight? Despite all the activities we crammed into a day’s itinerary, Nagatoro still has more to offer. We recommend going to Nagatoro often but not necessarily staying overnight; taking multiple trips apart is preferable to make the most of your time and budget. If you prefer staying overnight, however, we recommend finding accommodation in the Chichibu area, as it offers a wider selection of hotels, onsen, and dining options. What's the best time of year to go to Nagatoro? We visited Nagatoro in summer, which was a great time to go because of the warm weather and clear skies. Another great time of year to visit is spring -- Nagatoro and the surrounding Chichibu area get some beautiful cherry blossoms! Is it easy to drive to Nagatoro from Tokyo? While getting the train from Tokyo is quick and easy, having a car in Nagatoro isn't a bad idea if you'd like to see some more of the area. It takes around 2 hours, give or take, to drive to Nagatoro from central Tokyo. While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.

Andrew Bibee

Day Trip to Nagatoro — Saitama’s Best-Kept Secret

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