Imayoshi — Third-Generation Omakase in Otemachi

Forget Jiro — there’s no need to dream of him. Chef Imai — the third-generation sushi master at the counter of Imayoshi — is a bona fide magician who uses every opportunity for flavor, from his signature shari rice to the soup stock, and of course the seafood itself. He has the honor of running the oldest sushi restaurant in the Otemachi area, passed down from his grandparents.

Surprisingly affordable, Imayoshi is a must-visit for omakase sushi in Tokyo, and the restaurant is conveniently connected to Otemachi Station for easy access. Here’s what you need to know before you go.

Price range

There are two ways to eat at Imayoshi: lunch a la carte, and set courses. The former starts at ¥4,400 for an eight-piece nigiri platter, and goes up to ¥6,600 for 12. You’ll want to make a reservation for these.

There are also simple sashimi rice bowls (donburi) on offer, starting at a lower price point of ¥1,300. You don’t need a reservation for one of these, but you should come early, as there is no guarantee you’ll get a seat right away.

It’s the course meals where Imayoshi shines, though — and these come recommended. While they are hardly what you’d call budget, they are priced reasonably compared to many other omakase sushi restaurants in Tokyo. A lunch course starts at ¥5,000 for eight pieces of nigiri and three little desserts, going up to ¥13,200 for a “Supreme Nigiri course” (available for either lunch or dinner), which gives you 15 pieces of nigiri, as well as seasonal appetizers, extra tuna, and dessert.

Then there are the special omakase courses, where things get fancy and feature top-class sashimi and sushi offerings, and can include sake pairings if you so desire.

How to make a reservation at Imayoshi

You can reserve telephonically — in Japanese — or you can make an online reservation via byFood, as well as the restaurant’s website. Reserving on byFood gives you access to special course menus, as well as a good chance of getting a seat.

Food

There are no wasted bites at Imayoshi. From the appetizer — which was a seasonal ensemble of bamboo shoot, eggplant, and bitter melon when we went — to the nigiri sushi, each piece served, and eaten, by hand, maki rolls, savory egg custard (chawanmushi), miso soup, and the dessert (fresh mango sherbet for us), everything is perfectly delicious.

Our nigiri and maki sushi included: fatty tuna, squid drizzled with sudachi citrus, torigai (a type of shellfish) served with course-grain salt, snapper, the uncommon blackhead seabream, lightly seared swordfish, more fatty tuna, Japanese horse mackerel, young gizzard shad blanketing rice, old-school prawn, salmon roe, creamy sea urchin, eel, yet more tuna, and a piece of eggroll — among other delights.

The sushi rice, or shari, comes from Nagano Prefecture, and is flavored with a red vinegar from Kyoto, which is aged for 18 years. The wasabi is real. Soy sauce is available, but it’s unlikely you’ll need to add any — the sashimi that benefits from it comes with it preloaded.

Drinks

Green tea — hot or cold — is complementary, as is water, but there is a selection of alcoholic drinks if you want something more. Japanese sake, shochu, whisky, wines, beer and simple cocktails are all on the menu, starting at ¥600 a glass.

Ambience

Imayoshi is lots of clean lines, light colors, and solid — yet simple — wood. The counter seats are the center of the omakase restaurant, with a few private dining rooms tucked away. Conversation flows between patrons and the chef, and the atmosphere is lively — while remaining refined.

Delicious-looking plates of sushi sail by as the servers, wearing traditional tabi socks and geta sandals to match their smart kimono, make sure your green tea is kept topped up. Chef Imai folds and refolds his white finger cloth, expertly slices, issues the odd order, and keeps watch over his happy kingdom. In the right corner behind him is a collection of whisky, a baseball figurine tucked among the bottles. Next to that are his knives, six precision tools sheathed in a special box.

The chef says that customers connect with each other in his restaurant; tourists forging new friendships with local residents. They meet again abroad, he says, for another meal together.

Our review of Imayoshi Sushi

We were a little nervous when we stepped into Imayoshi — after all, you never know what an omakase sushi restaurant is going to be like. But Chef Imai quickly put our nerves at ease, and served us a meal that can best be described as a gastronomic experience verging on the spiritual. If that sounds like an ode to his sushi, that’s exactly what it is. Go see for yourself.

Imayoshi is good for:

Anyone seeking a superb omakase sushi experience in Tokyo. Whether it’s your first time trying omakase or you’ve tasted it all before, Imayoshi is sure to satisfy your palate. It’s exquisite sushi, served by a chef who, despite devoting his life to perfecting each bite from boyhood onwards, manages to stay warm, friendly and absolutely unpretentious.

by Carey Finn