yakitori Archives | Tokyo Cheapo

From bitter melon to watermelon, the summer foods of Japan come from all corners of the country and range from satisfying savories to sweet-toothed treats. Here's what to try -- and where to find them in Tokyo. What's fun is that it's not all about the food -- lots of summer dishes are a social affair. Be it plucking noodles from a bamboo flume or smashing a watermelon on a beach -- food is only half of the deal. 1. Kakigōri shaved ice Sweet, fun, and refreshing, kakigōri is usually the first food that springs to mind when you think of summer in Japan. Made with shaved ice and topped with myriad combinations of syrup, condensed milk, and fruit, it is a delicious dessert that cools you down too. You can find kakigōri in two distinct forms: fancy café-style concoctions and the simple festival cup version. If you go for the former, you can try seasonal fruit, local specialties like brown sugar and milk (in Ishigaki, anyway), or elaborate towers featuring hidden red-bean paste and more. The festival version is much simpler, offering a cup of ice and a selection of brightly colored syrups to choose from. Sometimes you opt for a flavor, sometimes you can create your own -- in which case we recommend you go for a rainbow stripe. Don't be shy with the syrup though, it can be a long way down to the bottom of the cup! Where to try kakigōri: You'll start seeing delicious photos of kakigōri in cafés throughout summer, and the blue paper cups are easily spotted at festivals. Don't miss our full guide to the fancier kakigōri spots. 2. Rei-shabu (cold pork salad) While traditional shabu-shabu hot pot is a winter staple, summer has its own version. Rei-shabu involves cooking slices of pork in a hot pot, but it is then dipped into cold water and plated atop a cold salad of raw veg -- typically accompanied by a sesame sauce. Where to try rei-shabu: This is a great dish to cook at home as you only need a simple shabu hot pot (this can be bought at home stores or even Daiso sometimes). If eating out, you'll find it at izakaya and in shabu-shabu restaurants. 3. Ayu sweetfish A small freshwater fish, ayu is the silver-blue creature you'll spot spiked above a grill at any festival or street-food stall in Japan during summer. When barbecued on a stick, you'll see they are shaped to look as if swimming -- this is to reflect their perseverance as they swim against the current. Ayu has a pleasingly sweet flavor, often thought similar to melon and refreshing against the grilled notes. While grilled with salt is the most common way to try it, you'll also find it served up as tempura and in more unusual forms like ice cream. It is especially popular in August during their spawning season, but you can enjoy it throughout the whole of summer. Where to try ayu: Ayu is a regional specialty of Nagatoro. Also, keep an eye out at any festival or busy street food area for the shio-yaki BBQ version. Alternatively, look for it on specials boards at izakaya or tempura restaurants. 4. Hiyashi chūka noodles Simply translated to mean "chilled Chinese-style", these cold ramen noodles are served mountain-like, surrounded with fresh vegetables. The best noodles retain their firmness and are cooling as you eat. Common toppings include sliced cucumber, ginger, ham, and omelet, as well as seafood like shrimp. The dish is usually served with one of two sauces, sesame or soy, and is considered restorative if you're struggling with the heat of summer. Where to try hiyashi chūka: Another popular dish to make at home, it's simple to assemble for a relaxed dinner. You'll see it in the convenience store chilled section too. If you're keen to try it at a restaurant, head to Yosuko Saikan in Jimbōchō for a high-end version presented in Fuji-like glory. Senrigan, a jirō-style ramen shop near Higashi-Kitazawa Station, piles its seasonal cold noodles into similarly epic towers -- but the summer dish changes from year to year (and isn't always hiyashi chūka), so check their social media before making the trip. Or you can look out for Kitakata ramen chain Ban-nai, who serve reasonably priced cold ramen in summer. 5. Mizu yōkan jelly Yōkan is a jelly-like dessert made from red-bean paste, sugar, and agar. Usually it's served in clear cubes or slices with green tea. In the summer, mizu yōkan -- meaning "water yōkan" -- is served in its place. It's a softer version made with a little more water that creates a light texture. Mizu yōkan has a fresh feel which almost manages to quench your thirst, and sometimes comes in matcha flavor. While there are plenty of wagashi to try, this is one of the best in summer and will often be served with matcha at teahouses in shrines, gardens, and temples. Where to try mizu yōkan: You can try your luck at teahouses, but if you want a guaranteed option, you can visit one of the many wagashi stores in Tokyo. Department stores' underground foodhalls (aka depachika) also have plenty of great options, or you can try specialists like Toraya in Akasaka. 6. Yakitori or grilled chicken skewers Yakitori is popular throughout the year, but really comes into its own during summer. It's generally grilled chicken, but which part specifically is often a mystery. In addition to the usual bits you'd expect to see -- think thigh and wing -- it also encompasses the sub-section of horumon or offal (aka internal organs and entrails). The only guaranteed part is the skewer. This is a festival staple, served fresh off the grill along with plenty of other meats on a stick, like pork and steak, but the little chicken skewers are a joy of their own, best washed down with a cold beer. Where to try yakitori: Keep an eye out at festivals, where there's a guaranteed yakitori supply. You can also visit special yakitori bars, try it at izakaya, or visit the yokochō of Tokyo -- like Omoide Yokochō in Shinjuku. 7. Nagashi sōmen noodles By far the most fun summer dish, nagashi sōmen involves plucking cold noodles out of a bamboo slide. You dip your catch in tsuyu (a soy-based sauce) and try again, making playing with your food a respectable activity for an afternoon at least. The word nagashi means to flow, and often noodles left uncaught are not eaten, so you can eat plenty knowing you're saving them from the trash. If you're not confident with your chopstick skills, you can always enjoy sōmen in a more standard form -- chilled with dipping sauce and fresh veg. Where to try nagashi sōmen: Although this is more of a Kyoto tradition, some restaurants serve it in Tokyo. Head to Choseikan in Saitama for an outdoor experience popular with locals -- just note you now need to book a time slot online in advance. We've also listed other top Tokyo area spots in this dedicated article. If you're traveling to Kyoto, Kibune village should be top of your list. Specifically, the restaurant Hirobun serves them by a waterfall using fresh river water. Alternatively, you can set up your own flume or try one of the store versions for an unusual afternoon party. 8. Goya (bitter melon) A real "love it or hate it" option, goya is a famously bitter melon which thrives in summer. Although it can be grown across the country, it is associated with Okinawa. The crunch is its only real saving grace -- unless you love bitter, which some do. Goya is used in stir-fries, salads, and the special Okinawan dish of goya-champuru -- a mix of tofu, bean sprouts, egg, pork, and, of course, goya. It's salted, sliced thinly, and cooked for longer to remove the bitterness, so this dish is a great introduction to goya as well as Okinawan cuisine. There are benefits to eating this bitter fiend; it is considered to have anti-aging properties as well as being packed with vitamins (B1, B2, B3, C, zinc, magnesium, calcium, iron ... the list goes on). It's considered especially good for getting rid of kidney stones, lowering blood pressure, and curing hangovers. Where to try goya: Dachibin Izakaya in Koenji was one of the first spots to introduce Okinawan food in Tokyo and has been running for over 30 years. They have performances on some nights, over 50 kinds of awamori behind the bar, and a great atmosphere. Taketomijima in Ginza does a great goya-champuru and also serves a wide range of awamori, the Okinawan alcohol -- all backed by island projections. 9. Japanese watermelon OK, so this seems basic, but there really is nothing like Japanese watermelon on a hot day. Despite what the internet often attempts to prove, they are not all square (although they can be if you want) and they don't all cost a fortune. However, as they are a really popular gift in the summer months, you'll often see them sold with a bow -- and they can be pricey in department stores. That might make it confusing when you see excited groups cheering as a blindfolded child attempts to smash one with a stick at the beach/festival/park. This popular summer tradition, known as suika-wari, is similar to a piñata game, and is really fun, especially since you can eat chunks of watermelon after. As well as eating actual watermelon, you'll see plenty of themed-items during summer, from drinks to ice creams and extravagant cakes. Where to try Japanese watermelon: You can pick up pre-sliced watermelons at any supermarket, or purchase a whole one if you fancy smashing it yourself. They are great at picnics and super refreshing. Sprinkle a little salt for a bonus flavor hit and enjoy the taste of Japanese summer. 10. Morioka reimen noodles Morioka reimen hails from Iwate Prefecture and is pretty much cold ramen, but with some summery additions you might not expect. Using a beef broth and topped with carrot, cucumber, tomato, kimchi, and fruits like watermelon and pear, it is certainly not like other ramen. Considered much healthier than regular ramen, Morioka reimen lacks the oiliness of its warmer cousin and has fresher ingredients, making it lighter and more refreshing. The noodles are made from a combination of soba flour and potato starch, giving them an unusual texture. Devised from a North Korean dish, it was reportedly brought over by an immigrant who adapted his local flavors to better suit the local palate, eventually creating Morioka reimen. Where to try Morioka reimen: If you're not heading to Morioka anytime soon, make your way to Tokyo's Ginza neighborhood instead. Pyon Pyon Sya is the go-to name for this summer treat, and it's affordable too. The restaurant serves plenty of other Korean treats, but don't leave without trying the reimen -- they do a special weekday lunch option which has a salad, extra beef, and a small dessert. 11. Hiyayakko tofu Simple, healthy, and as refreshing as a glass of cola (sort of), hiyayakko is a cold tofu dish which proves simplicity is best. Also known as yakko-dofu, the dish is an izakaya favorite and can be great to lighten the meal if you're having lots of fried food. Traditionally topped with spring onions, katsuobushi (fish flakes), and grated ginger as well as a dash of soy sauce, you can tailor the taste depending on the restaurant or household preference. Other options include shiso leaf, ham, cucumber, tomato, wakame, or wasabi for a more modern take. Where to try hiyayakko: This is easily found on any izakaya menu so you won't have to search too hard. Alternatively, it's super simple to make at home and you can choose the toppings you like. 12. Japanese-style BBQ In many countries, summer is barbecue season -- and Japan is no exception. From around June onwards, BBQ spots in Tokyo fling open their doors and welcome everyone in. But you'll quickly notice that a summer barbecue in Japan is different from other countries, and doesn't resemble yakiniku Japanese barbecue restaurants or teppanyaki restaurants either. While in the U.S. or Australia barbecues usually have grilled meat and non-grilled sides, here in Japan almost everything is grilled and often served with rice. Common meats include thinly sliced pork and beef, while vegetables can include corn, bell peppers, mushrooms, and even leek. There usually isn't a marinade or seasoning, instead, after the food is cooked you can dip it in a variety of sauces or flavored salts. Where to try Japanese BBQ: Lots of BBQ spots sell packages that include equipment rental, food, and sometimes even drinks. Our favorite spots include Shōwa Memorial Park in Tachikawa, and the rooftop Tsukiji Uogashi BBQ terrace if you're a seafood fan. 13. Japanese festival food Still hungry? Then it's about time we talked about Japanese summer festivals. Food is sold from street-side yatai stalls -- and you'll find them at just about every festival. Classics include food we've already talked about like yakitori, ayu, and kakigōri, as well as takoyaki (octopus balls), yakisoba (fried noodles), and ringo ame (candied apples). Where to try it: Festivals, of course! Go on an empty stomach and use the opportunity to try as many different foods are possible. 14. Bonus: The convenience store freezer No summer list is complete without a good old-fashioned sugar high from the freezer section of the corner shop, and Japan is no different. If you like ice cream, try the unusual and seasonal Häagen-Dazs flavors -- previous years have featured tomato, hōjicha (roasted green tea), a surprisingly sour strawberry/white chocolate blend, and coffee vanilla. For the lazy, a bag of Coolish squeezed straight into your mouth avoids any hard work, while a Jumbo Monaka, Crunky, or Black Mont Blanc is ideal if you want a substantial ice cream. Try Pino for bite-size options -- they're small ice-cream bites covered in chocolate and very, very addictive. For popsicles, there are two primary contenders, and we suggest you try them both. Gari-Gari-Kun comes in an easily spotted array of childhood flavors from ramune (like soda), mango, strawberry, orange, and grape, as well as seasonal offerings like watermelon. If you're going for the summer-fruit option though, put it back, because there's only one frozen watermelon snack worth eating, and it's a Suika Bar. Looking exceptionally aesthetically pleasing and tasting delicious, these are the most fun you can have on a hot day from a convenience store. While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change. Post first published in May 2018. Last updated: July 15, by the editorial team.

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