Okonomiyaki: Osaka and Hiroshima-Style Soul Food in Tokyo

Tiffany

It’s hard to precisely and concisely describe okonomiyaki in English. The common translations of “Japanese pizza” or “Japanese pancake” just don’t do it justice. Literally translated to “grilled as you like it,” okonomiyaki is something like a savory pancake with various ingredients, some common ones being pork belly, cheese, cabbage, spring onions and seafood. It’s then topped with bonito and seaweed flakes, mayonnaise and okonomiyaki sauce. While its historical origins are unclear, a Taisho-era (1912-1926) dish from Kyoto called issen yoshoku, a thin, savory crepe with an assortment of ingredients and swimming in sauce, might have been its predecessor.

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Photo by Henry Burrows used under CC

Osaka vs. Hiroshima

It’s claimed that no area makes okonomiyaki better than these two. However, both Osaka and Hiroshima have their own distinct ways of preparing okonomiyaki, leading to a slight rivalry over which does it right and better.

Osaka’s style is the more commonly known one. It’s prepared much like your typical pancake — the batter is mixed with the ingredients, then fried. Meanwhile, for Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, the ingredients are cooked separately in layers, beginning with the batter, which is thin and crepe-like. Noodles are also a key ingredient. The end result looks more like a stacked pile of alternating batter and ingredients. Also, whereas Osaka-style okonomiyaki can be grilled yourself, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is always left to the chef.

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Photo by Nicholas Boos used under CC

Nowadays, though, even Osaka-style okonomiyaki may have noodles; this kind of okonomiyaki is called modan-yaki, with the modan meaning “modern,” so the main difference between these two styles, really, is the cooking method. While the methods differ, the end products are delicious anyway! Still, many seem to prefer Osaka-style okonomiyaki.

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Where to eat: okonomiyaki restaurants in Tokyo

While Tokyo has monjayaki, its own take on okonomiyaki which is runnier, there are also restaurants where you can savor good old Osaka and Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. Here are a few:

1. Sakuratei

Tucked in a back alley of Harajuku, Sakuratei is a great place to start if you’re new to okonomiyaki. The restaurant has an English menu, and has a laid-back ambiance. It claims to owe its popularity to the fluffy texture of its okonomiyaki, as well as its secret sauce. For big eaters, they have all-you-can-eat okonomiyaki courses. The 90-minute lunch course (available from 11:00 am-3:00 pm) costs 1,060 yen on weekdays, and 1,200 yen on weekends. The 2-hour course includes okonomiyaki, 22 toppings, monjayaki, yakisoba, and yakiudon.

Address: 3-20-1 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo

Access: Harajuku, Meijijingumae, or Omotesando Station

Phone: 03-3479-0039 | Business Hours: 11:00 am-11:00 pm

2. Kiji

This famous okonomiyaki restaurant in Osaka has two branches in Tokyo: one in Marunouchi and another in Shinagawa. Starting at 830 yen for a buta-tama (pork and egg) okonomiyaki, prices are quite reasonable. English menus are available. Because this restaurant is popular, it’s best to arrive early and expect a line that can leave you waiting for more than an hour, at worst.



okonomiyaki restaurants in tokyo
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Marunouchi branch

Address: B1, Tokyo Building, Marunouchi 2-7-3, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo

Access: Tokyo, Kyobashi, or Yurakucho Station

Phone: 03-3216-3123 | Business Hours: 11:00 am-3:00 pm (lunch), 5:00 pm-11:00 pm (dinner)



Shinagawa branch

Address: 2/F Shinagawa Front Building, Kounan 2-3-13, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Access: Shinagawa Station

Phone: 03-6712-0256 | Business Hours: 11:00 am-3:00 pm (lunch), 5:00 pm-11:00 pm (dinner)

3. Sometaro

Based in Asakusa, Sometaro‘s been in business since 1937. This grill-it-yourself okonomiyaki restaurant has affordable prices, with a very basic okonomiyaki (with only pickled ginger and cabbage as ingredients) costing 380 yen. The ones with more fillings cost anywhere between 630-880 yen. Be sure to try their unconventional okonomiyaki: pizza (with peppers, bacon, and cheese), curry, mochi (with cheese, bacon, and mochi), and pork with kimchi.

Address: 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo | Access: Asakusa Station

Phone: 03-3844-9502 | Business Hours: 12:00 pm-10:30 pm

4. Okonomiyaki Honjin

Another grill-your-own-okonomiyaki place, this place has all-you-can-eat and all-you-can drink courses. The lunch course is 90 minutes, and costs 1,480 yen. The 2-hour all-you-can-eat-and-drink course costs 3,000 yen, covering 18 kinds of okonomiyaki, 25 kinds of monjayaki, and a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.

Address: 7-8/F Komatsu Building, Kabukicho 1-17-2, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo | Access: Shinjuku Station

Phone: 03-3844-9502 | Business Hours: 12:00 pm-11:30 pm

5. Suzume no Oyado

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Photo by Chris Kirkland

This restaurant has an old-school, homey vibe. It serves not only okonomiyaki, but also monjayaki. Prices are slightly higher compared to the aforementioned restaurants, but are still relatively inexpensive.

Address: Maruyamacho 9-3, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo | Access: Shibuya or Shinsen Station

Phone: 03-5458-2760 | Business Hours: 12:00 pm-11:30 pm

6. Buchiumaya

One of the few Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki restaurants in Tokyo, its best-sellers are the regular okonomiyaki — nikutama (meat and egg) — and mochi cheese nikutama. This izakaya-like restaurant also has other dishes worth trying, such as a crispy squid snack. Prepare to spend about 815-1500 yen at this place.

Address: 7-22-34, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo | Access: Shinjuku Station

Phone: 03-3364-0807 | Business Hours: 5:30 pm-11:00 pm, Mondays to Saturdays

7. Hiroshima Okonomiyaki Kurumi

Also in Shinjuku, the restaurant’s name needs no explanation. Its inexpensive okonomiyaki range from 600-900 yen, and portions are large. The restaurant seems particularly generous with its noodles.

Address: 1/F Iseya Building, Kagurazaka 5-30, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo | Access: Shinjuku Station

Phone: 03-3269-4456

Business Hours:  Monday to Saturday 11:30 am-2:00 pm (lunch) and 5:30 pm-10:30 pm (dinner); Sunday and Holidays 12:00 pm-3:00 pm (lunch) and 5:30 pm-9:30 pm (dinner)

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Location Map:

Name: Sometaro
Pricing info: 380-880 yen
Address: 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Location(s): Asakusa, Harajuku, Marunouchi, Shibuya, Shinagawa, Shinjuku,
Access: Asakusa Station
Web: http://www.sometaro.com/
(Link in Japanese)
Phone: 03-3844-9502 03-3844-9502
Business hours: 12:00 pm-10:30 pm
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One Response to “Okonomiyaki: Osaka and Hiroshima-Style Soul Food in Tokyo”

  1. +1 on Sakuratei. My family ate there on our trip in December and our meal was amazing.


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