Written by Andrew Bibee
Saitama is one of Japan’s most underrated destinations. It needs to be talked about more — and Chichibu is a big reason for that. A rustic old town surrounded by mountains, Chichibu has long been a getaway for weary Tokyoites. It’s been a sacred pilgrimage site for even longer, with some of the shrines and temples in the region dating back hundreds — even thousands — of years. Here’s what to see on a Chichibu day trip from Tokyo.
With this itinerary, you will visit what is arguably the most famous shrine in Chichibu, and experience two of the most sought-after activities — hot springs and local whisky tasting.
Chichibu is also famous for its spring shibazakura flower festival, which is held 20 minutes from Seibu-Chichibu Station. That means you could visit the festival instead of Mitsumine Shrine.
8:30 a.m. — Depart Tokyo for Chichibu
Ikebukuro Station to Seibu-Chichibu Station (approx. 90 minutes)¥1,700 one way
The easiest way to get from Tokyo to Chichibu is by taking the Seibu Ikebukuro Line Limited Express “Laview” to Seibu-Chichibu Station. You’ll want to be on the 8:30 a.m. train, as it’s a full itinerary we have planned.
Before boarding, stock up on snacks and drinks for the day. See if you can use the restroom before you get to your destination, too. You should arrive at Seibu-Chichibu Station at 9:51 a.m., which doesn’t leave much time before the 10 a.m. bus to the mystical Mitsumine Shrine.
You can purchase your tickets at any Seibu Line ticket booth at least one month in advance or the day of, but it is recommended that you buy them in advance. Online sales are unavailable unless you have access to Smooz, which is unfortunately in Japanese only.
If you are planning to travel around a bit, you can explore discounts with a Seibu Pass. You will need to pay the limited-express fare for the Laview separately, however.
Pro tip: Wear proper shoes, and clothing you don’t mind getting wet or dirty — you’ll be having lots of fun outdoors.
10 a.m. — Mitsumine Shrine
Seibu-Chichibu Station to Mitsumine Shrine Bus Stop (approx. 80 minutes)¥950 one way
Board the “M” Bus heading towards Mitsumine Shrine. It departs from boarding area 5 — you should see three boarding rows of bus stops, and six boarding areas in total numbered 1-6. Number 5 is on the rightmost row, and you should see a large 5 sign in white paint on a blue background.
This bus is like any other bus in Japan: you can use your Suica card, or cash to pay for the bus fare. Note that day passes for Seibu are not usable for these buses.
While the schedule and bus rides are similar regardless of what day you go, it’s best to go on a weekday morning so that you can grab a seat and relax. It’s a long but worthwhile bus ride through the Chichibu countryside, and up the mountain to Mitsumine Shrine.
11:20 a.m. — Exploring Mitsumine Shrine
Congratulations are in order, as you have finished the journey to Mitsumine Shrine. Once the bus comes to a stop, we recommend you use the restrooms on the premises — these should be directly in front of you once you get off the bus. Then take the short hike uphill, and enjoy the view of the mountains.
Follow the arrows, and you will find yourself walking deeper into a forest. You will be met with a unique triple-gate configuration of a torii flanked by wolf statues rather than the usual dog statues, and large slabs of stones on your right-hand side. Keep going forward until you come to a large gate, emblazoned in gold and red on your left-hand side.
What to know about Mitsumine Shrine
Mitsumine Shrine is Japan’s most famous wolf shrine, and legend says that it was founded in the second century by the semi-mythical Prince Yamato-Takeru-no-Mikoto (a statue of whom you can see nearby.) Mitsumine has endured many generations in a variety of forms, but the current iteration of the main shrine was built approximately 360 years ago, and the worship hall around 220 years ago.
The shrine was refurbished in 1964. Then, to commemorate the 1,900-year anniversary of its founding and the 500-year anniversary of the arrival of Monk Gekkan Doman (the monk responsible for rebuilding the shrine when it was in decline during the Warring States period), the worship hall, main shrine and gate were relacquered and repainted in 2002.
The red-and-gold entrance gate, or Zuishin-mon, has the words “Mitsumine mountains” in gold on black sign, in reference to the mountain range the shrine is situated in, and is arguably the most picturesque location on the premises.
What to see
Approaching the gate, you will see two more wolf statues on either side — it is said that these wolf deities are protectors against misfortune and maladies.
Trivia: An artistic representation of these very wolves can be seen in the famed Ghibli film: Princess Mononoke.
As you pass through the gate and walk along the gravel road, you will approach a set of stairs leading up to a blue-bronze torii gate and the main building of the Mitsumine Shrine. It is watched over by a pair of 800-year-old sacred trees.
We recommend taking your time to walk around the shrine and pay your respects like the locals do, with an offering of a 10-yen coin. When you are finished, visit the gift shop on the left side and check out all the cool wolf memorabilia, souvenir clothing, and the selection of locally produced sake, wine, and beer.
Our recommended souvenir — besides the good-luck charms — would be the Mitsumine wolf patch that you can only get here. Keep in mind that the gift shop and the shrine only accept cash.
We also encourage you to check out the opposite side of the shrine, to see the statue of the founder, and walk up the flight of stairs to the Okumiya Viewing Post, or Okumiya-Youhai-Den; a noted scenic spot where you can see the Chichibu and Mitsumine mountains.
1 p.m. ish — Lunch on the mountain (or back at the station)
10-minute walk from Mitsumine Shrine to Sanroku-tei Restaurant, or bus from Mitsumine Shrine Bus Stop to Seibu-Chichibu Station (approx. 80 minutes)¥1,500–¥3,000
Note: Bring cash for the restaurant and souvenir shopping in Mitsumine.
When lunchtime comes peeking around the corner, we can recommend one of two options:
- Try the local fare at the rest area and shopping center on top of the mountain, a short walk from Mitsumine Shrine.
- Take the bus back to Seibu-Chichibu Station, and try out the Matsuri-no-Yu food court nearby.
Lunch near the shrine
The easier option is visiting Sanroku-tei, a souvenir shop and restaurant which serves local Chichibu fare. It’s about 10 minutes by foot from Mitsumine Shrine. Since the Chichibu region is inland and mountainous, it’s famous for yams, mushrooms, and wild vegetables, and here at Sanroku-tei, they serve fresh soba noodles made with these ingredients.
We can wholeheartedly recommend the noodles, but we also suggest you ask if they have their special egg-on-rice set (they only serve 30 a day). All of these meals have a medicinal quality to them, so you’ll feel rejuvenated for the rest of your trip.
If you have a bit of a sweet tooth, do not fret; during summer Sanroku-tei serves shaved ice, and in winter they grill mochi in a sweet and savory soy sauce and make traditional sweets out of dried persimmons. Wash these down with a cup of coffee, and you’re good to go.
Lunch near the station
The alternative is to take the bus back to Seibu-Chichibu Station, departing from the Mitsumine Shrine Bus Stop. On weekdays, you can take the 1:35 p.m. bus, which will reach the train station at 2:55 p.m. And for the weekends, we recommend taking the 1:30 p.m. bus, which will reach Seibu-Chichibu station at 2:50 p.m., just in time for a late lunch.
After the long bus ride back to the station, enter through the front entrance of the Matsuri-no-Yu facility operated by Seibu Recreation Co. Ltd., and you will be greeted by the Matsuri-no-Utage food court. Choose from a variety of meals, ranging from Chichibu specialties such as miso-grilled pork to cutlet rice bowls, and soba and ramen noodles.
A signature staple here is the miso potato; a savory sweet treat made of steamed potatoes fried with a tempura batter, and drizzled with a miso sauce. Finish your meal with a scoop or two from the local gelateria — we especially recommend the one drizzled with Chichibu whiskey.
Whichever option you decide on, you’ll want to be back in front of Seibu-Chichibu Station by 4 or 5 p.m., as the day is not over yet. The next leg of your adventure will be the relaxing onsen hot spring of Matsuri-no-Yu.
4 p.m. — Hot-spring time
¥1,100 on weekdays, ¥1,380 on weekends; rental towel set an additional ¥300Note: Cash and card accepted.
The onsen hot springs at Matsuri-no-Yu are just the thing after a long day out. The outdoor bath section (rotenburo) has traditional baths, an area where you can lie down and be blanketed by hot-spring waters, and tubs where you can submerge yourself to your neck while you enjoy the fresh mountain air.
The indoor bath section provides a variety of tubs all aimed at soothing physical ailments and warming your body, as well as a sauna, a cold bath. A salt sauna is also available in the women’s’ section. After the baths, you can kick back and relax in reclining chairs.
Matsuri-no-Yu has two private sauna rooms: one made to simulate a night sky, and the other simulating a waterfall, symbolic of the many waterfalls and streams in the area. The final attraction is a frozen “ice room,” where you can cool down a -20 degree room filled with images of the icicles which form in Chichibu during winter. These private rooms cost ¥3,000 for two hours on weekdays, and ¥5,000 on weekends.
Take your time here and relax until around 7 p.m. — then we have just the place for dinner.
Dinner at the Highlander Inn
¥4,000–¥5,000Note: The bar is closed on Mondays.
Chichibu is not only well known for its scenic sights and numerous temples, it is also famous for its spirits. The area is home to excellent sake and beer breweries, as well as wineries — but it is arguably best known for its whiskies. The famed Ichiro’s Malt is from here, and whisky enthusiasts come to tour the facilities of its birthplace — the Chichibu Distillery.
As such, we have found that the best way to end a trip to Chichibu is with traditional pub-grub and drinks at the Highlander Inn. Run by whisky enthusiast Tatsuya Minagawa, this is actually his second Highlander; the first is in the village of Craigellachie, Speyside, on Scotland’s Malt Whisky Trail.
The goal of the Highlander Inn Chichibu is to provide an at-home experience which melds Japanese traditional fare with a British esthetic, all the while evoking a nostalgic feeling and atmosphere as if you’ve been welcomed back time and time again.
What to order
For dinner, we recommend going for their course options — especially if you are in a group, but if you came alone, fret not, the bar has on their menu smaller portions of most of the meal options for you to enjoy a course of your own.
On this particular trip, I tried a small plate of fish and chips, the haggis and mash, edamame, and Chichibu Ichiro’s malt whiskey neat.
On select days, the Highlander Inn also offers Coronation chicken, Guinness stew, cottage pie, and their very own “Highlander Curry”, which is made by stewing beer into the curry for added flavor and depth.
Their selection of Scotch is unrivaled, but you can also enjoy some unique cocktails and liqueurs made locally. Two top picks would be their concoction made with Chichibu mead and ginger, and their take on the negroni made with Ichiro’s malt whiskey.
A fun way of enjoying these food/drink options is to find a space in the room which speaks to you: the Highlander Inn has a counter by the fireplace and tables, but their tatami rooms — which open up to a Japanese-style garden interior, and their dark drinking room with cozy lounge chairs, give way to the most atmospheric experience you could ask for.
Time to go home
Seibu-Chichibu Station to Ikebukuro Station (approx. 90 minutes)¥1,700 one way
All good trips must come to an end unfortunately, but I hope you have enjoyed your time in Chichibu. To be on the safe side of train schedules, it is best you leave the bar by around 9 p.m. and head to Seibu-Chichibu Station.
Again, we recommend you take the Laview rapid transit for the speediest trip back to Ikebukuro: it will be the Limited Express Chichibu 60 Laview departing Seibu-Chichibu from 9:24 p.m., and this will be the same for both weekdays and weekends. If all is well, then your train should reach Ikebukuro station by 10:45 p.m., which should give you ample time to return to your accommodation in Tokyo.
Do we recommend a daytrip to Chichibu?
100% yes, but we also wholeheartedly recommend you come back again, or stay for the night to see more. You will be hard-pressed to find an equally relaxing and nature-filled experience in central Tokyo, and I hope that this itinerary is a good starting point to explore the oft-overlooked prefecture of Saitama.
While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.
