Written by Andrew Bibee
Japan’s grand sumo tournaments are held six times a year, and three of them take place in Tokyo. Maybe you planned your visit around one of these tournaments … or maybe you didn’t. Fortunately, there are still a few ways you can see sumo wrestlers in action — like visiting a morning sumo practice session at one of Tokyo’s “sumo stables”, the facilities where wrestlers live and train.
We visited Tatsunami Stable to see what it’s like — and it was out of this world. Read on for a rundown of what we experienced, with exclusive commentary (plus a fun tip) from the stable master — and see what you can look forward to.
When does sumo training take place in Tokyo?
Morning sumo practice starts early. Not quite tuna-auction-early. But still pretty early — for example, the guided tour for Tatsunami Stable begins at 8:30 a.m. sharp.
Scheduling can be tricky, so it’s best to book in advance. Training doesn’t take place when tournaments are on (including the three tournaments held outside Tokyo). It is also often suspended for a week or so after the tournaments, and on other days when the wrestlers have some kind of engagement.
Sumo stable tours in Tokyo
To get a closer look, a tour guide will take you inside the sumo stable to watch the morning practice. You can reserve a place on an English-language sumo stable tour through JTB Sunrise Tours, who are experts in the field. They offer a rare chance to experience the famous Tatsunami Stable in Ryōgoku.
Tatsunami Stable
Tatsunami-beya is considered one of the most prestigious sumo stables in Tokyo, and has produced several yokozuna since it was founded in 1915. Among the champions is Hōshōryū — who became the 74th yokozuna as of January, 2025. We met him when we visited! *faints in fangirl*
Getting to Tatsunami Stable
The closest station to Tatsunami Stable is Asakusa, accessible on the Ginza subway line, Asakusa subway line, or the Tobu Line. If you are coming by subway, take Exit 5; if you are coming on Tobu, use the northern exit. From there, it is an approximately 20-minute walk to Tatsunami Stable. However, you can also take a bus.
For access by bus: Take the Taito City Loop Bus “Megurin” from Asakusa Station, on the North Megurin route. Get off at the “Hashiba Rojin Fukushikan Nishi” stop. From there, it is about a 3-minute walk to the sumo stable.
What to expect on the tour
It’s a well-rounded experience that offers value for money. Your interpreter (through an earpiece) will provide information about the history of sumo wrestling, the current events of the sumo world, upcoming championships, and a rundown of the rules and details of the training, in real time.
The morning sumo training experience is sensational — not only will you see the sumo wrestlers crash into each other, but you will see the stable master relaying instructions, as well as hear the grunts, roars, and stomps of the wrestlers echo through the hall. It’s a real window into the daily life of a sumo.
After watching the training session, you can look forward to taking photos with the wrestlers and interacting with some of their personal belongings — such as a sumo-sized yukata that most people wouldn’t otherwise get a chance to see up close.
What we learned at morning sumo practice
While it’s not included as part of the tour package, we had the opportunity to chat to master of the Tatsunami Stable, Taiji Tatsunami, after the morning training. Here are some of the cool things we learned.
What is special about sumo?
As Stable Master Tatsunami explains: “Sumo has a history of around 1500 years, and while it is a sport, it is so much more — sumo is intertwined with the religious and cultural aspects of Japan.”
The history of sumo dates all the way back to the Kofun period, but during the Nara and Heian periods (710-1185), it was widely practiced throughout Japan as a festival ritual. It was around this time that sumo developed into a Shinto ritual.
As you’ll learn on the tour, the sumo ring as we know it was created sometime during the Edo Period (1603-1868), and it was around then that sumo truly became a spectator sport.
A sumo wrestler’s daily routine
Master Tatsunami describes sumo as a lifestyle. “An average schedule would be to wake up early (around 7 a.m.) and then train, practice sumo until lunchtime,” he explains. “We only have two meals a day, and we never have breakfast — as eating before doing the intense morning routine would make us nauseous.” After lunch, the wrestlers have free time to do further training, take a nap if they are so inclined, and so on.
Keeping up this daily regimen is important in the life of a sumo, especially for those who have recently decided to become one. “The biggest challenge a beginner sumo wrestler must overcome is maintaining this strict schedule almost everyday,” says Master Tatsunami. “It takes dedication to do this over and over.”
Tourists are welcome
Isn’t it a big distraction, having an audience, we ask? No, says Master Tatsunami quickly — it’s actually good for the wrestlers. “It is better to be seen, as it helps us not get complacent or lazy in our training,” he says.
“We have had a two- to three-fold increase of foreign visitors recently,” Master Tatsunami adds. “I believe that the cultural aspects of the sport truly appeal to outside audiences.”
The stable has embraced modern connectivity, and even has its own Instagram account where you can find out more about the daily life of the wrestlers.
What do sumo wrestlers eat?
Sumo wrestlers are often stereotyped as eating a specific meal to gain the strength and weight important to the sport; chanko nabe is a type of hotpot packed with vegetables and proteins (such as chicken and fish) stewed in a simple dashi broth, and consumed in massive quantities — daily.
Master Tatsunami dispels this myth. “Actually no, we don’t eat chanko everyday,” he laughs. “In recent times we’ve also eaten pastas and curries.” Despite the emphasis on tradition, it seems the food choices for wrestlers have diversified in the 21st century.
“Do the shiko every day”
Blown away by the flexibility and strength of the sumo wrestlers, we ask Master Tatsunami if there is a sumo workout move or stretch the average person can do, to stay in shape. His eyes sparkling, he tells us firmly, “Shiko, do the shiko.”
The shiko is the signature stretch every sumo wrestler does: the movement involves placing both hands on your knees, then raising one leg up at a time before bringing it down forcefully to a stomp, and finally transitioning into a squat. Repeat this with the other leg, and alternate.
“It looks easy at first, but it is actually quite hard to do,” says Master Tatsunami. “It’s important to start out slowly in the beginning, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll eventually be able to do a lot of this with strength. It is a stretch that has been done for 1500 years, and doing this exercise would greatly benefit your legs — since the legs get weaker with age.”
Rules to follow at morning sumo practice
- When you arrive at a sumo stable, it’s polite to bow to the usher and anyone you encounter on your way in. You can also say “o-jama shimasu” — which roughly means “I am sorry to disturb you” — in a soft voice after you have taken off your shoes and stepped up from the genkan (entrance). Remember to place your shoes facing towards the door. Note — it helps to wear shoes that are easy to take off and put back on!
- When you enter the training room, bow toward the rikishi (wrestlers) without uttering any words, and silently make your way over to the cushions laid out for you to sit on.
- As you enter the wrestlers’ domain, keep in mind that you are technically being invited into their home as a guest; drinking and eating is prohibited, as well as talking or bothering the wrestlers.
- You don’t need to sit in seiza (formal kneeling position), but make sure the soles of your feet don’t point towards the fighters or the dohyō (ring).
- If you turn up late, you might not be admitted, so make sure to be on time. Also, you can’t leave early.
- Photography is permitted, but turn off the flash and reduce the sound as much as possible.
- Entering the wrestlers’ ring is strictly prohibited.
While this may sound like a lot of rules to follow, it’s still a far cry from the highly regulated lifestyle that the rikishi follow for the duration of their careers, which dictates everything from training to eating and sleeping times.
Watching sumo practice for free
For the true cheapos out there (who don’t mind potentially being left out in the rain, literally), there’s Arashio-beya, the Tokyo sumo stable that lets you watch practice for free — from outside. The outside wall of the beya has large, street-facing windows.
There is a bicycle rack in front of the window, and you’re not allowed to step in between the bikes, so the experience will be at arm’s length. But otherwise it’s a pretty decent view, so long as not too many people are gathered. If you’re lucky, the rikishi will step outside after the session and may be willing to pose for photos with you. However, there’s no guarantee.
How to watch practice at Arashio-beya
Practice at Arashio-beya takes place between 7:30 a.m. and 10 a.m. on most mornings outside of tournament periods. Still, it is best to call the sumo stable between 4 p.m. and 8 p.m. the day before to make sure the practice is actually taking place — and to ask for exact starting and ending times. For non-Japanese speakers, the stable’s website has a dialogue in romaji (romanized Japanese) to help you through the conversation. Rest days and changes to the timetable are often announced on the website, too.
Arashio-beya doesn’t require reservations to watch through the windows, but the courtesies expected in return for the privilege of watching sumo practice are outlined on the website. For example, no flash photography is allowed.
Getting to Arashio-beya
The closest subway station is Hamachō on the Toei Shinjuku line; use exit A2. You can also walk there in 10 minutes from exit A1 of Ningyochō Station, which is on the Hibiya line and just a few stops from the old Tsukiji Fish Market.
While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change. This article was originally published in September, 2014. Last update: January, 2025.
